Casa Olea
Near Priego de Cordoba, Malaga & Cordoba, Spain
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
A quintessential vision of Andalucia: undulating olive groves, limestone outcrops topped by Arab watchtowers, eagles wheeling overhead and that glorious sense of space. It's easy to see why English owners Tim and Claire chose to build their Shangri La in this leafy valley in the unspoilt Subbética hills then named it after the olea europaea (olive tree). He worked as a tour guide in Latin America, she with a swish hotel group, and with their shared nous they have fashioned this former cortijo into a remote rural retreat where the beauty is in every detail.
First to greet you will be Ruby, a lolloping mutt who's the third member of the Olea triumvirate. Moving inside things feel big and airy, with a spectacular double-height stairwell leading up to the 6 simple, stylish and surprisingly cheap bedrooms. For a large part of the year life gravitates to a river-facing terrace where you're accompanied by birdsong during the day and the call of a Scops owl when darkness falls. It's a perfect base for escapism; Tim has mapped out walking routes and cycle rides straight from the house, and there are fascinating villages on your doorstep for day visits. And we applaud Olea's eco approach, in which recycling and sustainability play lead roles.
First to greet you will be Ruby, a lolloping mutt who's the third member of the Olea triumvirate. Moving inside things feel big and airy, with a spectacular double-height stairwell leading up to the 6 simple, stylish and surprisingly cheap bedrooms. For a large part of the year life gravitates to a river-facing terrace where you're accompanied by birdsong during the day and the call of a Scops owl when darkness falls. It's a perfect base for escapism; Tim has mapped out walking routes and cycle rides straight from the house, and there are fascinating villages on your doorstep for day visits. And we applaud Olea's eco approach, in which recycling and sustainability play lead roles.
Highs
- You're far from the madding crowd in beautiful walking country, yet Córdoba and Granada are within easy driving range
- The house is infused with a relaxed vibe and Tim and Claire are friendly, caring hosts
- Dinners, served 6 nights a week, are a celebration of local produce and highlight the best Andalucian culinary creations
- There's a pool with a view, loungers and hammocks, plus a cosy sitting room with a log fire
- Underfloor heating throughout the house is a big plus when temperatures drop in the cooler months
Lows
- There are no restaurants within walking distance, so you'll need to drive for meals on the night when dinner isn't served at the casa
- No children under the age of 6 are allowed, except when the whole house is booked
- The pool is unheated
Best time to go
Spring and autumn are best for walking, with sunny days and balmy temperatures. July and August are very hot (30C plus), but the house has air conditioning throughout. Winter (December to February) generally brings clear skies - you may spot snow on the highest peaks of the distant Sierra Nevada - but be prepared for the odd bout of cloud and rain. Temperatures can drop below zero at night, but a log fire in the lounge and underfloor heating throughout make Casa Olea wonderfully cosy.
Our top tips
Be sure to visit the nearest town, Priego de Córdoba, an all but unknown gem of southern Spain. Check out its delightful main square, its ancient Jewish quarter and the flamboyant Fuente del Rey: the first time I stumbled upon Priego's take on a Versailles-style fountain it left me open-mouthed... why all this over-the-top opulence in such a sleepy little town?