While many tourists head west for big surf and big hotels, a more cosmopolitan mix of people find themselves in beautiful Olhão. Once a quiet fishing village, it’s now a vibrant town with a distinctly Moroccan vibe (owed, in part, to the fact it’s twinned with Agadir). There, the newly opened Casa Rosa sits proudly, with its pink-washed walls, on a pretty, tree-lined street. Known locally as the ‘pink house’, it was built in the 1950s but left in disrepair until new owners Colum and David stumbled across it and fell in love. They spent three years transforming the sophisticated 9-bedroom hotel – one that feels part-Portuguese quinta, part-Moroccan riad, with plenty of bohemian, artistic flair.
Take a stroll down the winding, cobblestone streets towards the waterfront and you’ll find shops, cafes, restaurants and some of the freshest seafood around (Olhão’s the Algarve’s largest fishing port, so there’s nowhere better to enjoy it). On a hot, sunny day, we had a hard time leaving the pool – the passionfruit mojitos had something to do with it – but there’s a lot to explore. You’re centrally positioned among the Algarve’s best beaches, with the Ria Formosa national park on your doorstep.
Highs
- Gorgeous courtyard and terrace overlooking Olhao – perfect for alfresco dining and lounging, with areas for sun and shade-seekers
- Lots of generous touches: big, comfy beds, eco-friendly toiletries, and a flask of herbal tea left at turndown
- Owners Colum & David will make you want to move to Olhão just to hang out
- Unlike other places in the Algarve, people actually live in Olhão so it doesn’t feel like a tourist town
- Good value for money which adds to the laid-back, welcoming feel
Lows
- The pool is small so you can’t swim laps, but it’s perfect for a relaxing dip
- Olhão has a lovely harbour but the closest beaches are a drive (or ferry boat/water taxi) away
- There’s no surf, but almost every other watersport is available
- There aren’t any TVs in any of the rooms, which we didn’t miss but some people might
- Shops and restaurants in Olhão are mostly closed on Sundays, so plan accordingly
Best time to go
Olhão can get very busy in the peak summer months (and very hot) so the best time to visit is May/June, or September/October.
Our top tips
We loved dotting our way around the Algarve coast, exploring the endless different beaches. But it’s not all about the sea – it’s worth driving inland to see the smaller towns and more mountainous regions of the Algarve. One of our highlights was visiting a small waterfall, Pego do Inferno, near Tavira. The perfect post-sightseeing dip in an unbelievably picturesque setting.
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