Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Talia means "Look!" in the Sicilian dialect - and you'll have to look hard to find this gorgeous guesthouse, camouflaged inside old houses on Modica's tiered hillside. There's no reception, but wave your magnetic card in front of the stone wall and a concealed sensor will unlock a rustic door. Step into the hidden garden, filled with birdsong and dripping with fat figs and plums, white lilies and pink anemones, and - talia! The tightly packed houses and ornate churches of this stunning Unesco-listed town are spread like an amphitheatre at your feet.
Marco and Viviana, architects from Milan, spent 3 years creating their dream home, fusing natural materials (recycled roof tiles, pressed-iron beds, old oak chairs) with the subtlest of modern technology. Bedrooms, spread among the cottages, get cane ceilings above luscious mustard or cerulean walls, and traditional floor tiles beside gleaming chrome and glass wetrooms. It's their homage to 'slow living' - and a sublimely peaceful retreat among Italy's finest Baroque towns and sandy beaches.
Marco and Viviana, architects from Milan, spent 3 years creating their dream home, fusing natural materials (recycled roof tiles, pressed-iron beds, old oak chairs) with the subtlest of modern technology. Bedrooms, spread among the cottages, get cane ceilings above luscious mustard or cerulean walls, and traditional floor tiles beside gleaming chrome and glass wetrooms. It's their homage to 'slow living' - and a sublimely peaceful retreat among Italy's finest Baroque towns and sandy beaches.
Highs
- A gem in the heart of Modica - itself a Sicilian gem
- Superb attention to detail (reclaimed door handles, repointed masonry, chrome Grohe taps) - as you'd expect from a pair of designers
- Cooling off in the infinity pool to a backdrop of spectacular city views
- Leisurely breakfasts under the fig tree, with local jams, delectable cakes and fresh fruits
- Friendly, very helpful hosts, who can point you in the direction of historic hill towns, beautiful beaches and nature reserves (all within a 30-minute drive)
Lows
- It's 100m from the nearest car park (signs guide the way)
- It's a 10-minute puff up the hill from town - not ideal for the less sprightly or the very young
- Complaints of poor storage in some rooms, and a couple (Zenzero and Casa Buendia) have showers hidden behind curtains rather than sitting in fully enclosed ensuites
Best time to go
Spring (April-early June) and autumn (September-October) are the most pleasant times to visit. The weather is perfect for gentle exploration, and swimming is quite feasible until early November. Sicily is extremely busy and very hot in summer (July-August); that said, Modica's hillside setting means it stays cooler and more bearable than many other towns on the island.
Our top tips
While exploring Modica, stop to taste the crunchy, spicy chocolate for which it's famous. Drawn by irresistible aromas, we stumbled upon the house of Don Puglisi just above Corso Umberto, where ‘fallen women’ concoct all manner of goodies. Nearby, Bonajuto offers fig-filled nucatoli, while Donna Elvira specialises in carati, made with carob flour, raisins and almonds.