Reviewed by
Ben Feetham
The extremely comfortable Casona Granado perches in the ancient village of El Pilar, 5 minutes’ drive from popular Lubrin. Once the family home of owner Clayton, he and wife Rachel have lovingly renovated the traditional 'big house' to retain its beautiful character but fill it with light and contemporary charm. Step into the garden and you’ll find a saltwater pool and hot tub, plus loungers to sunbathe and read on.
The ground-floor Albar restaurant serves fantastic regional fare, expertly sourced and prepared by chef Clayton and his skilled team. It’s one of the best restaurants in the Almeria province, and extremely popular with locals. El Pilar itself is pretty and untouristy, with a church perched at the top, and whitewashed houses spread along its sleepy, steep lanes. Although guided walks, bike hire and day trips are on offer, we were very content to just stay put. If you want to relax, disconnect and experience traditional Andalucian village life, this is the place to do it.
The ground-floor Albar restaurant serves fantastic regional fare, expertly sourced and prepared by chef Clayton and his skilled team. It’s one of the best restaurants in the Almeria province, and extremely popular with locals. El Pilar itself is pretty and untouristy, with a church perched at the top, and whitewashed houses spread along its sleepy, steep lanes. Although guided walks, bike hire and day trips are on offer, we were very content to just stay put. If you want to relax, disconnect and experience traditional Andalucian village life, this is the place to do it.
Highs
- Gloriously peaceful and off-the-beaten track, with stunning views
- The fantastic Albar restaurant serving modern twists on traditional Spanish recipes; open every day
- Amazing rates include a delicious breakfast
- Rustic charm: each of the 8 bedrooms is different, and all feel homely and welcoming
- Friendly staff
Lows
- The roads up to El Pilar are windy and steep; not for the faint-hearted
- No rooms have TVs or baths
- The village is quiet so don’t expect any bars or other restaurants; Lubrin is only 5 minutes’ drive away
- The Spanish eat late so you may experience a little noise from the restaurant, though we weren’t disturbed
Best time to go
We visited at the beginning of October and the climate was perfect — warm days and fresh evenings. Spring is similar; come in February and March for stunning flower blossom. In July and August temperatures can get balmy, but rooms have air con, and the fresh mountain air keeps things cool. The hotel is open all year and has underfloor heating for the colder months.
Our top tips
- The drive up from the coast is stunning so have your camera at the ready (or stop regularly if you're driving!).
- Time your stay to coincide with El Pilar's annual fiesta (October). We had a blast, partying into the night, eating a huge village paella, and watching colourful processions.