Castara Retreats' hardwood tree-houses are nestled within lush coastal rainforest, with every apartment offering views over highlighter-blue sea framed by mango trees, glossy-leafed succulents and coconut palms. This is a laidback idyll, with verandas hung with hammocks from where you can watch hummingbirds whirr and fishermen haul in their nets. A collaboration between a British family – who visited on holiday and fell in love with the location – and Tobago locals Porridge and Jeanell – who run things here – Castara is not a place where you’ll have your hand held, but you’ll be made to feel at home. Porridge appears to be everywhere at once, providing car hire, taxi service, and running much-loved boat trips in his fishing boat, ‘Sun Arise’.
The setting is the unspoilt northwestern coast of Tobago on a golden crescent bay. Start your day with a yoga class in the Wellness Studio. Take boats or paddleboards out on the water, book a birding tour or dive trip, hunt for wildlife and waterfalls in the rainforest. Return to Castara for a full body massage to a soundtrack of birdsong and ocean waves. When you've worked up an appetite, there’s the in-house sea view Caribbean Kitchen serving local dishes as well as handmade pasta, or head to the nearby village to eat. This is no ivory tower of a resort, they encourage you to support local businesses while enjoying the tropical dreamland surroundings.
Highs
- The setting – you get both rainforest and beach
- Locally run and embedded in the local community so you can experience the calming Tobago “go-slow” vibe. No need for a car, you can walk to shops, beach, restaurants and rainforest
- Activities galore including boat trips and yoga on the deck; this is a fun place for the solo traveller
- Accommodation comes with glorious sea views from decks and balconies, and open-air living rooms and self-catering kitchens
- An excellent sustainable ethos: lodges have green roofs; extensive tree and shrub planting; the tropical gardens are a wildlife sanctuary; recycling and composting; low energy consumption
Lows
- This is an authentic rustic retreat rather than a sleek five-star resort
- No swimming pool, but that beautiful ocean is right at your toe-tips
- Insects are naturally abundant in this rainforest location, however, every bed has full length mosquito nets
- Access to the apartments is up steep stepped slopes, which are on various levels, so it's not suitable for many disabled guests
- Caribbean Kitchen prices are higher, helping to avoid competition to the village
Best time to go
It's warm year-round in Tobago, but the dry season is January to May. From June to December there are afternoon rain showers. The ocean in July and August is usually very calm, perfect for snorkelling and younger families. Although the Caribbean hurricane season runs from June to November, Tobago is rarely affected.
Our top tips
Book Porridge’s all-day beach, barbecue and snorkelling boat trip. It's a great way to make friends with other guests and to get to know Porridge and his son Shaq, who are very good company. Fish caught by guests appear on the lunch table at Big Bay, the most idyllic beach on Tobago.