Chandra Mahal Haveli
Bharatpur, Uttar Pradesh, India
Reviewed by
Emily Hirschberg
As it is often said, there are many Indias. More of a continent than a country, India spans from the dramatic slopes of the Himalayas to the golden beaches of Goa, from the languid backwaters of Kerala to the heaving metropolis of Mumbai. It takes many forms and has many faces, but the purest incarnation is the simplicity of a quintessential Indian village. There is no truer India than the village.
Tucked into the winding alleys of Paharsar, a tiny hamlet near Bharatpur, sits the glorious Chandra Mahal, a 200-year-old haveli that was once home to the Maharaja of Bharatpur. Inside its high limestone walls lie peacock-filled gardens and a magnificent turquoise pool, with alluring rooms and impeccable service to boot. There are fascinating daily village walks, camel-cart rides for the adventurous, and the Taj Mahal is an easy day-trip away. And after a day of exploration, what could be better than retreating to your private terrace and hot tub, for a moonlight-dappled dip?
Tucked into the winding alleys of Paharsar, a tiny hamlet near Bharatpur, sits the glorious Chandra Mahal, a 200-year-old haveli that was once home to the Maharaja of Bharatpur. Inside its high limestone walls lie peacock-filled gardens and a magnificent turquoise pool, with alluring rooms and impeccable service to boot. There are fascinating daily village walks, camel-cart rides for the adventurous, and the Taj Mahal is an easy day-trip away. And after a day of exploration, what could be better than retreating to your private terrace and hot tub, for a moonlight-dappled dip?
Highs
- The setting in a sleepy traditional village, giving you a rare glimpse into rural Indian life
- Incredible meals in the Peharsi Andaaz restaurant - their Rajasthani thali blew us away
- A massive pool and immaculate gardens - perfect for playing croquet or sitting in the shade with a good book
- Just off the Jaipur-Agra expressway, so excursions to the magnificent Taj Mahal, Agra or Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary are a cinch
- Spacious rooms decorated with antique furniture - splurge on a Suite for an outdoor hot tub
Lows
- The village is an 'authentic' one - so expect some litter, ambient noise and monkeys visiting your balcony
- Off the beaten track (a high for me!) - so make sure your driver knows exactly where to bring you
- It’s lucky the food is fantastic, because there are no other restaurants nearby
- Beyond relaxation and day trips, there isn’t heaps to do; 2-3 nights here would be ideal
- Since our visit, we've heard that the hotel could do with one or two maintenance touch ups
Best time to go
As with most of Northern India, October to March brings the most pleasant temperatures and little rain. In the summer and monsoon seasons (April-September), hotel occupancy drops massively - you might have the place to yourself.
Our top tips
Learn a handful of basic Hindi words and phrases before you go. It will go a long way towards showing appreciation to the welcoming villagers.