Chateau d'Uzer
Uzer, Ardeche & Auvergne, France
Reviewed by
Sarah de Vere-Drummond
After a thrilling drive along twisting roads, past soaring cliffs and sparkling rivers peppered with pebble beaches, we arrived at this fairy-tale chateau to find a note of magic in the air. Tucked away in the hilltop village of Uzer, it was originally built to protect nearby silver mines, which helped to fund the Crusades. Luckily for us, it’s been reborn as a sumptuous country hideaway: the old dungeon has been transformed into a cinema room with red-velvet chairs, the arched medieval chapel has become a library, and the sprawling suites have been brought back to life with the perfect blend of traditional charm and modern luxury. The only room left untouched is the rococo Winter Garden with its dreamy pastoral fresco. Outside there's a freshwater pool, ancient rose gardens and terraces shaded by cedars and palms, plus a surprise among the trees: gypsy caravans and a romantic cabin for 2 where you can sleep in the most bewitching of settings.
We enjoyed blissful days relaxing by the lovely pool and strolling around the jasmine-scented grounds, occasionally venturing out to explore the Ardèche’s towering gorges, picture-perfect hilltop villages and historic cave paintings. We left utterly enchanted by the rambling estate and this spectacular corner of France.
We enjoyed blissful days relaxing by the lovely pool and strolling around the jasmine-scented grounds, occasionally venturing out to explore the Ardèche’s towering gorges, picture-perfect hilltop villages and historic cave paintings. We left utterly enchanted by the rambling estate and this spectacular corner of France.
Highs
- The atmosphere created by Véronique and Eric is simply magical, and interiors are impeccable
- Ideally placed for exploring the Ardèche. It’s a beautiful region where you can kayak down river gorges and go wild swimming
- Delicious breakfasts, plus convivial dinners brimming with local produce
- The relaxed, get-away-from-it-all vibe. A perfect place to unwind, and you can book massages
- Extremely romantic but also great for families, with 2-bedroom suites, a family gypsy caravan and a guest kitchen
Lows
- Rates for the caravans don't include breakfast (you'll get a kitchenette or access to the guest kitchen to make your own)
- You’ll need a car to get around and to get to restaurants if you want to eat out
- During July and August dinner service is only available Monday, Wednesday and Saturday
Best time to go
The chateau is open all year round. Late spring and early autumn are the best times for exploring the beautiful scenery of the Ardèche and for making the most of the pool, but don’t discount winter - it’s a wonderful season to experience the castle, and you can cosy up by the roaring fire.