If you're looking for a chic little hideaway - as we constantly are! - on Greece's most spectacular and popular island, then you can't beat this deliciously styled, semi-subterranean home for two. Tucked away in the lovely white-washed village of Pyrgos (our favourite), next to the chapel of Agios Demetrios (hence the name), it's got everything a couple needs for a short (or long) break. There's a lofty living area with kitchenette, a tiny private courtyard with plunge pool, and a super comfy double bedroom with ensuite bathroom burrowed into the tufa hillside. The one thing it lacks are those caldera-edge views; but what bliss to escape the selfie-snapping crowds and retreat to your stylish little sanctuary. And you can climb up onto your pueblo-style roof terrace, glass of chilled wine in hand, to enjoy the same spectacular sunsets, as well as wonderful vistas over the whole island.
The village - largely car-free - is worth exploring: churches and cafes, a crumbling castle at the top of the hill, and several tavernas serving authentic Greek fare in case you don't feel like cooking. It's a short drive to the black sand beaches of the east coast, or to the bars and boutiques of Fira, with its cable car down to the harbour for boat trips to lava islands and hot springs. Santorini is truly a unique and photogenic spot, and this is our favourite hideaway on the island.
Highs
- Service from owner Andrew is friendly, attentive but never intrusive; like a very boutique five-star hotel with concierge
- It's a super romantic bolthole, with heated jacuzzi pool, double shower and the cosiest of bedrooms
- For us, the location is perfect: in a picture-perfect village away from the crowds, but with stunning views
- The interiors feel spacious, smart and surprisingly bright , with everything you might need: fast WiFi, free movies, a sleek kitchenette, gorgeous Jo Malone toiletries...
- When you consider all this, it's amazing value for money - especially for Santorini
Lows
- You're not on the caldera edge but inland, a short drive from those classic plunging sea-and-cliff views
- This is an adult-only hideaway; kids stay home for this one
- Be aware that the island as a whole gets more than its fair share of tourists, with commensurate prices
- The hot tub doesn't have a sea view, but it is super private and not overlooked (a rarity in Santorini)
Best time to go
We think May, June, September and October are the best months to visit: the temperatures are generally lovely and warm (fine for swimming), and island not too crowded. However, even in midsummer, Demeter Cave House remains cool and quiet, with its own tiny pool and secluded courtyard. The house is closed for about 3 months in winter.
Our top tips
Eating out in Pyrgos is a foodie's dream: from authentic Greek tavernas to fine dining. Lunchtime is popular with the locals who gather for excellent meze plates and a glass of ouzo; in the afternoon enjoy iced coffee and cake in the shade of the pine trees in the main square. Early evening bag a table for cocktails to watch the blood-red sun sink into the horizon. Take dinner in one of the friendly village tavernas for delicious home-cooked dishes or sample innovative cuisine and Santorinian wines on candlelit terraces. Andrew (and the guest book) can fill you in on the latest recommendations.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 14 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape