Dhow Inn
Paje, Jambiani & South, Tanzania
The somewhat dusty village of Paje on Zanzibar’s tropical southeast coast gives no suggestion of the sleek retreat that lies on its edge. Hidden behind a whitewashed wall and a coral rock, flanked by vivid green vegetation and colourful tropical flowers, rests a sanctuary of peace and tranquility, created out of the remains of an old beach house by owners Marc and Josephina.
Less is definitely more at Dhow Inn. It’s minimalist but far from stark, with a friendly, casual and unpretentious vibe. The 44 rooms - all airy and spotlessly clean, with private terraces and daybeds - are clustered around 3 iridescent swimming pools, in lush gardens that provide plenty of privacy. Food and smashing cocktails are served in the lounge-bar and 2 restaurant areas, one of which is a candlelit alfresco setting where you can dine with powdery white sand between your toes. The Indian Ocean is only 75m away, with a private patch of the vast beach reserved for hotel guests, and all sorts of water-based activities are available, including snorkelling, scuba diving, kitesurfing and dolphin-watching.
Less is definitely more at Dhow Inn. It’s minimalist but far from stark, with a friendly, casual and unpretentious vibe. The 44 rooms - all airy and spotlessly clean, with private terraces and daybeds - are clustered around 3 iridescent swimming pools, in lush gardens that provide plenty of privacy. Food and smashing cocktails are served in the lounge-bar and 2 restaurant areas, one of which is a candlelit alfresco setting where you can dine with powdery white sand between your toes. The Indian Ocean is only 75m away, with a private patch of the vast beach reserved for hotel guests, and all sorts of water-based activities are available, including snorkelling, scuba diving, kitesurfing and dolphin-watching.
Highs
- Beautiful gardens and 3 chic pools with sun loungers and umbrellas
- A low-key ambiance that makes couples, families and friends all feel welcome
- Considering how stylish the place is, prices are very reasonable (and some include dinner)
- Thoughtful touches, including free beers and soda in your minibar on arrival, and a bedtime note with tomorrow’s weather and tide table
- Lots of activities to try - and Paje is a world-class kitesurfing destination, with areas for experts and beginners
Lows
- No direct ocean views, other than from the first-floor restaurant, due to a row of beach huts between hotel and sea
- We found some of the food a little disappointing, though we've been assured the menu has improved since our visit
- No in-room TVs, but WiFi is good
- The sea can retreat a long way during low tide - fine for kitesurfing, but it can make swimming tricky
Best time to go
The main seasons in southeast Zanzibar are mid-June to mid-October (a spectacular time, with warm but comfortable temperatures) and mid-December to mid-April (hot but often stiflingly humid). These are also the best times for kitesurfing. Diving is best in March. The island experiences 2 rainy seasons, with heavy showers from mid-April to mid-May, and lighter ‘short rains’ during November.
Our top tips
You might want to check the dates of Ramadan, when food and alcohol aren’t served outdoors in view of passers-by, and some bars/restaurants close altogether (most notable in Stone Town).