Douar Samra
Toubkal National Park, Atlas Mountains, Morocco
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
From the fertile Ourika Valley, a winding road cuts east through a steep-sided gorge to emerge in a rocky ampitheatre at the base of towering Toubkal Massif. The stone and pisé villages that cling to the mountainsides have become one with the landscape. Tamartet is the highest, almost 2,000m above sea level, and at the heart of this cluster of red-earth buildings Douar Samra awaits you, as remarkable as its surroundings are wildly beautiful.
Jacqueline fell under the mountains' spell many years ago. A committed conservationist, she restored and expanded this village douar (house) using only traditional methods and materials, working with the villagers, letting them tell her how 'things are done'. She filled her creation with Berber warmth: bright cushions and blankets, candles rather than light bulbs, the aromas of Moroccan cuisine wafting out from a tiny kitchen and an authentic beldi hammam. There's no better trekking base, but if you prefer exploring with your eyes rather than your feet, the lofty roof terrace is an amazing platform to drink it all in.
Jacqueline fell under the mountains' spell many years ago. A committed conservationist, she restored and expanded this village douar (house) using only traditional methods and materials, working with the villagers, letting them tell her how 'things are done'. She filled her creation with Berber warmth: bright cushions and blankets, candles rather than light bulbs, the aromas of Moroccan cuisine wafting out from a tiny kitchen and an authentic beldi hammam. There's no better trekking base, but if you prefer exploring with your eyes rather than your feet, the lofty roof terrace is an amazing platform to drink it all in.
Highs
- One of the most beautiful areas of the High Atlas and at the centre of some of the region's finest trekking country, yet only a 1hr 30min drive from Marrakech
- Tasty and plentiful Moroccan food prepared by your ever-smiling Berber hosts
- Antithesis to the off-the-peg hotel, a place where ‘care’ comes before ‘profit’ and each guest is welcomed as family, in true Berber tradition
- Jacqueline has decorated her home with warmth and colour, always looking locally for inspiration - the treehouses are the first of their kind in Morocco
- Although only a walk away from Imlil (the centre for organised Atlas treks), Tamartet remains remote and unspoiled
Lows
- The track up from Imlil makes for a tricky ride in anything other than 4x4 vehicles. It's best, and also great fun, to arrive by donkey
- It's not for the anti-social - people tend to share meals and conversation with fellow guests, and speaking a little French or Arabic will help
- Some bedrooms are quite small with low ceilings. But the feel is cosy rather than claustrophobic
- Electricity is confined to the kitchen and a few bedrooms, while WiFi is patchy and found solely in the main building; if you want mod cons, look elsewhere
- Typical of many Moroccan guesthouses, there are a few animals about (cats, dogs, even ducks and a donkey)
Best time to go
Although it can make trekking more difficult, it's amazing to be up here in the winter (Nov to Feb) when there's snow on the peaks. In spring (March to May) the terraces surrounding the village are blanketed in wild flowers and cooler day temperatures make it an ideal time to walk. And because of the altitude summers don’t get too hot.
Our top tips
You'll want walking boots or, at the very least, sturdy trainers - even novice trekkers will be glad of good shoes when exploring the rocky landscape. And, believe us, you'll want to explore. It's spectacular up here.