Ecolodge de Dar Itrane
Bougmez Valley, Atlas Mountains, Morocco
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
The High Atlas valley of Aït Bougmez remains one of Morocco’s best-kept secrets. Vehicle access has only recently opened up the area, by way of an awe-inspiring road that snakes up and over a high pass before dropping down to the fertile valley floor. This was an extraordinary feat of engineering and it's not a route to be driven by the faint-hearted.
The valley still has the feel of a hidden Shangri-la; of a remote mountain kingdom that time passed by. Dar Itrane (which means House of the Stars) clings to a rocky bluff at the eastern end of the valley in the charming village of Imelghas, looking out across a patchwork of neatly tended fields to the snow-capped peaks beyond. This pisé-built inn, with 17 simple, homespun rooms, is an ideal trekking base and offers a unique insight into local Berber culture. What's more, its French owners have a genuine commitment to the natural, human and cultural environment of this uniquely beautiful corner of the High Atlas, so by staying here, you're helping to preserve the village and landscape.
The valley still has the feel of a hidden Shangri-la; of a remote mountain kingdom that time passed by. Dar Itrane (which means House of the Stars) clings to a rocky bluff at the eastern end of the valley in the charming village of Imelghas, looking out across a patchwork of neatly tended fields to the snow-capped peaks beyond. This pisé-built inn, with 17 simple, homespun rooms, is an ideal trekking base and offers a unique insight into local Berber culture. What's more, its French owners have a genuine commitment to the natural, human and cultural environment of this uniquely beautiful corner of the High Atlas, so by staying here, you're helping to preserve the village and landscape.
Highs
- The Aït Bougmez valley has a unique beauty and remains unsullied by tourism
- The journey here is an adventure in itself - and one you'll never forget
- The starry night skies, with so little light pollution, are simply amazing
- The walking here is as good as anywhere in the Atlas
Lows
- It's very remote and off-the-beaten-track; vertigo sufferers might find the spectacular journey a bit of an ordeal!
- It's not for everyone; this is a no-frills, back-to-basics kind of place
- There's no TV or internet access (a high for some)
- Don’t expect gourmet meals, do expect tasty home-cooked dinners
- We found service to be pretty minimal and the staff didn't speak any English - brush up on your French before coming
Best time to go
Winter can be a difficult time to visit - remember that the road can take a real battering after rain or heavy snowfalls. The valley is at its very best in spring when the apple trees are in blossom, but because it's so high, you’ll stay cool here in summer too.
Our top tips
Most of the guests come here to walk or to get to know local people and customs. If you are driving you need to be of the adventurous type and a larger car or 4x4 is highly recommended.