El Cancho
Tarifa, Costa de la Luz, Spain
Reviewed by
Anna Mullinder
Just 3km from Tarifa, on a private grassy hillside overlooking the windswept beaches of the Atlantic, lies this pair of open-plan eco-houses surrounded by rocky outcrops and pine forest. The larger house (sleeping 4-6) was designed for Milan’s Salon del Mobile (1998), by Swedish architect Thomas Sandell and Wallpaper* magazine. Its design credentials are evident in the sleek wooden floors, perspex walls and the cubbyhole bed. And up at the top of the hill, rebuilt on the base of an old shepherd's hut, sits the Little House (sleeping 2-5), complete with an open-plan living area, a cool kids’ bunk room, a plunge pool, and incredible 360-degree views.
These relaxed spaces can be many things to many people. The smaller one is perfect as a romantic couple's hideaway; the larger one could be a chilled-out family base; or take them both together - if you're lucky enough to find availability - with a group of kitesurfing friends hoping to make the most of the area’s strong winds.
Both houses offer a real back-to-nature experience with eco-friendly ideals. Solar panels provide electricity, whilst gas heats water directly from the mountain spring. The local farmer still herds his goats around the hillside, so you may even have the enchanting soundtrack of jingling goat bells while you take a siesta.
These relaxed spaces can be many things to many people. The smaller one is perfect as a romantic couple's hideaway; the larger one could be a chilled-out family base; or take them both together - if you're lucky enough to find availability - with a group of kitesurfing friends hoping to make the most of the area’s strong winds.
Both houses offer a real back-to-nature experience with eco-friendly ideals. Solar panels provide electricity, whilst gas heats water directly from the mountain spring. The local farmer still herds his goats around the hillside, so you may even have the enchanting soundtrack of jingling goat bells while you take a siesta.
Highs
- Total solitude and privacy. The two houses are a good distance apart, and you'll share the hillside with cows, goats, pigs, owls and swooping red kites...
- But you're not completely cut off from civilisation. The main coastal road and Tarifa town are just a 5-minute drive away
- We love the panoramic views over rocky crags and sparkling seas towards Morocco; on a clear night you can see Tangier's twinkling lights across the water
- BBQs on the terrace as the sun goes down, accompanied by the melody of goat bells in the distance. Both houses have well-equipped kitchens, too
- Kite- and windsurfing beaches aplenty; some beautifully secluded bays are within a short drive
Lows
- No air-con and wholly dependent on natural energy; without sunshine (rare in these parts) you may find yourself without power - although the owners promise "a limitless supply of candles and twinkling stars"
- The open-plan sleeping arrangements might not suit everyone
- The strong winds can be exhausting, but this is why many people travel to Tarifa
- Access is via a steep single-track road, with the last 100m on foot if staying in the Larger House; a car is essential
- Some recent reports that the Larger House could do with some touch-ups, particularly the soft furnishings and the bathroom
Best time to go
El Cancho is open all year round. May and June are the best months for wildflowers and quieter beaches. Summer brings a good party scene, but the main road can get very busy, and Tarifa town fills with Spanish tourists. September and October are quieter but warm; the annual 7-day feria is quite something, with 500-strong horseback parades, rides, raffles and surfing competitions. Winter is ideal for a quiet getaway, and the weather can be surprisingly good - we came in January and experienced bright sunshine and temps in the high teens. The bird migration is from October to June.
Our top tips
Bring high-factor suncream (the wind can be very deceptive), a sturdy windbreak for the beach, walking boots, and your binoculars. Kite / windsurfing gear is useful if you have it, although there are plenty of places you can hire it from.