Eolo
near El Calafate, Argentine Patagonia, Argentina
Reviewed by
Christabelle Dilks
Patagonia is immensely seductive: wind-swept steppe, mountain peaks where condors soar, and vast stretches of nothing where you can dream and leave civilisation behind. Not quite. If you don’t want to rough it, it’s either a long drive to a sheep farm or touristy El Calafate. But now Eolo offers luxurious style, stunningly set in a remote valley, within easy glacier reach. A striking new building reworks traditional Patagonian zinc, creating an exclusive hideaway with just 17 suites arranged around a central courtyard. Huge space inside reflects infinite space outside, with windows framing unparalleled views of the valley rimmed by grand mountains, and even Torres del Paine on a clear day.
Interiors are designed with warm minimalism and impeccable taste, matched by perfect personalised service from the staff. You’ll be welcomed by your own bilingual host-guide who’ll help plan your excursions over tea and cake. Ride to find flamingos rising from a turquoise lagoon, walk on the glaciers, and return to a sauna, sophisticated cuisine and superb wines. You won’t want to leave.
Interiors are designed with warm minimalism and impeccable taste, matched by perfect personalised service from the staff. You’ll be welcomed by your own bilingual host-guide who’ll help plan your excursions over tea and cake. Ride to find flamingos rising from a turquoise lagoon, walk on the glaciers, and return to a sauna, sophisticated cuisine and superb wines. You won’t want to leave.
Highs
- Huge, stylish rooms, with fabulous beds and gorgeous bathrooms
- Mind-expanding views over the untouched Patagonian steppe, with light playing constantly on massive mountains opposite
- Well away from touristy El Calafate (feel the silence, hear the wind), but with easy access to excursions as it's closer to the glaciers
- Wonderful staff - the best in the area: young, genuinely friendly and welcoming ‘host-guides’
- Comfort in quiet and exclusive isolation: a wonderful sense of having this vast landscape to yourself
- Rates include all meals, soft drinks, airport transfers and guides for activities in the surrounding area
Lows
- Eolo is a real taste of Patagonia, and suitably isolated - don’t come here if you want nightlife or to meet other travellers. However, El Calafate is only 25km away - staff are happy to take you if you want to buy or hire hiking equipment, and taxis are inexpensive
- No TV in the rooms; if you’re missing it, you’re probably in the wrong place. However, there are televisions in both the bar and another living room
- It’s expensive. There are some decent upmarket hotels in El Calafate, but what you’re paying for here are the space, the service and the real Patagonian landscape, which you would miss entirely by staying in town
Best time to go
December and January are high season and not recommended, since the glacier trips are busy - hardly the photograph you want of pristine nature. September, October and March are the best months: there are fewer crowds and days can still be beautifully mild. Bear in mind, though, that weather on the glacier is completely unpredictable, since the winds which come over the Andes, bringing humidity which precipitates as snow where the glacier is formed, are constantly changing.
In March and April the autumn colours are spectacular, as the lenga on the upper slopes of the mountains turns scarlet. The whole region is closed for winter from June to August, as the weather makes the area very inhospitable. You should bring warm clothes whatever time of year you come.
In March and April the autumn colours are spectacular, as the lenga on the upper slopes of the mountains turns scarlet. The whole region is closed for winter from June to August, as the weather makes the area very inhospitable. You should bring warm clothes whatever time of year you come.
Our top tips
The ozone layer is very thin here, so pile on the factor 50 sun cream and wear good sunglasses. A hat is essential for both sun and wind. Also bring a windproof jacket, walking boots (or at least sturdy trainers with ankle support), warm waterproof gloves (2 pairs are a good idea if you’re going on the glacier) and 2 pairs of walking trousers (in case one gets soaked on your first day).