Follonico

Rooms

Follonico’s rooms and suites have traditional beamed ceilings, rustic doors and travertine stone floors, and are delightfully cool when you step in from the hot sun. But the first thing that grabs your attention is the vintage paraphernalia: a wedding dress hung on your clothes rail, a battered trilby on the bed, antique typewriters, piles of LPs, a dial telephone. For a nanosecond you wonder if you’ve stumbled into another guest’s room. It’s rather theatrical, and whether you love or hate it (we loved it), you won’t fail to be impressed by the level of thought that’s gone into each detail. Indeed Suzanne has spent a lifetime sourcing and collecting the items, and all have their own story.

The backdrop for this quirkiness is a calm, uncluttered space that’s quietly luxurious. Comfy beds have pocket-sprung mattresses, there’s a choice of pillows, and temperature controls mean you can make the room even cooler if necessary. The ensuite bathrooms have excellent raindance showers, organic cotton towels and waffle robes.

The 4 suites are spread through the old farmhouse, mainly on the first floor. All have a living area with boxy sofas in white linen or black leather; some of these are in a separate room, others under original bricked archways. We stayed in Suite Verde Intenso and loved its little balcony and clever details. A bookcase was crammed with Dutch and English novels (everything from Rosamunde Pilcher to The Da Vinci Code), dried lavender was arranged in a wicker trug, and mismatched glass decanters sat in front of a Monet print. It felt like home. Suite Alba Chiara is on the ground floor, with a private garden in its infancy; you can look out to the distant towers of Montepulciano from the room. Luxury Suite Blu Notte has a mini balcony looking out over the church of San Biagio. Small Suite Rosso Tramonto, though the smallest suite, is arguably the loveliest, with its loft-like open-plan space and 3 huge windows that let in light all day.

In an outbuilding next to the farmhouse are 2 Double Rooms. Although they lack the space and sitting areas of the suites, they have access to a vast terrace looking over the rolling hills towards Montepulciano. Named Montepulciano and Montefollonico, they share the same blend of old and new as the main building: rustic beds are covered with crisp white linens, modern lighting is set into centuries-old cotto floor tiles, and jugs of flowers sit on bedside tables carved from huge chunks of antique timber. The overall effect is calm and soothing, giving centre stage to the panoramic views outside.

Features include:

• Bathrobes
• Hairdryer
• WiFi

Eating

Breakfast is served in a sunny room adjacent to the family kitchen, with tables in a row. It’s a sociable space, and guests talk easily, led by Fabio’s infectious chatter. Foodwise, it’s a very good Tuscan spread of freshly baked breads, local meats, organic cheeses (including delicious Pecorino and Marzolino), brewed coffee, and juices. On a side table sat a homemade mushroom and olive pizza, and a bowl of fruit - ‘Take some away for later!’ he urged, endlessly hospitable.

For other meals, you’ll need to drive to Montefollonico (4km away) or Montepulciano (10km away). We ate in Montefollonico twice, and were very happy with our meals. Ristorante 13 Gobbi is a traditional trattoria, with checked tablecloths, thick stone walls, and a lovely warm owner. We dined heartily on homemade pasta served in a hollowed-out Pecorino wheel, aromatic pigeon, and a creamy tiramisu. Over the road, Osteria La Botte Piena is a bustling deli/wine cellar, with an upstairs restaurant that's popular with local families. There’s an extensive selection of bruschettas and local specialities; we tried the famous pici pasta with rabbit and it was fantastic.

If you want to spend a day just lounging around at the hotel, nip to Follonico and buy yourselves a picnic lunch. Fabio will lend you plates, cutlery, a bottle opener etc - maybe even a blanket if you ask nicely.

Features include:

• Breakfast
• Vegetarian options

Activities

• Montepulciano, a stunning hilltop town best known for its Vino Nobile, is the area's main attraction. Wander through car-free streets and admire ancient fortifications and the pretty Piazza Comunale (main square). At the bottom of town you'll find a couple of bodegas for wine tastings
  
  
• The Renaissance town of Pienza - a Unesco World Heritage site - is also close. The cluster of buildings around the crumbling Piazza Pio II is the main attraction. See the beautiful altar in Rossellino's Duomo, then visit the Palazzo Piccolomini next door, once the home of Pope Pius II
  
  
• Similar, with glorious medieval architecture but far fewer crowds, is Montichiello
  
  
• The landscape of the Val d'Orcia is also marked as a Unesco treasure, and its pastoral and agricultural beauty has inspired many artists. Take the time to just drive and admire
  
  
• Bagno Vignoni, a small village famous for its thermal hot springs, is pretty too. If you want to swim, buy a day pass to the Hotel Posta Marcucci's pool, which is fed by a natural hot spring. The central square has a (now unswimmable) large pool, which gives off a steaming haze at night. Local restaurants play live blues and jazz on their terraces, and the almost smoky atmosphere is amazing, reminiscent of 20s-style clubs
  
  
• Ask Fabio for details and maps of his driving itineraries: 'The English Patient' (via Valdichiana, the Val d'Orcia and Le Crete Senesi), 'Under A Tuscan Sun' (through some small agricultural towns, generally not well known) or 'The Gladiator' (taking in the Val d'Orcia, Pienza and Bagno Vignoni)

Activities on site or nearby include:

• Hiking
• Historical sites
• Museums / galleries
• Wine tasting

Kids

Only infants aged 0-12 months and children aged over 12 are accepted during the summer months (mid-May to September). This is a tranquil adult-focused property. Kids of all ages are welcome at other times on request.

Best for:

Teens (over 12)

Family friendly accommodation:

Alba Chiara suite can take an extra bed for a child up to 12 years of age or a baby cot on request, and is preferred for families as it is on the ground floor. The other two suites (Verde Intenso and Blu Notte) can take a baby cot. If travelling with teenagers you will have to take two rooms

For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection

Location

Follonico is set in southern Tuscany, midway between Siena and Perugia, about 10km northwest of Montepulciano, and 4km from the small village of Montefollonico.

By Air:
The nearest airport is Perugia Sant'Egidio (100km away). Alternatively you can fly to Florence Peretola (130km away) or Pisa Galileo (179km away), which have a wider range of flights. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.

From the Airport
It's a 1-hour drive from Perugia, and just over 2 hours from Pisa or Florence, but driving in Tuscany is an absolute pleasure.

By Car:
If you want to hire a car, see our car rental recommendations.

By Train:
If you'd prefer to travel overland from the UK, you can reach Florence and Tuscany quite easily from London, and from elsewhere in Italy. See the excellent Seat 61 for details. Check when booking and see if a transfer can be arranged to and from the station in Torrita di Siena and/or Montepulciano.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.

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