Swop the jet set for a jetty settee: an armchair on the central pier of this Pemba Island hideaway has to be one of the world's coolest places to unwind. Wonderfully remote, we arrived via speedboat to be greeted by manager Hannes Wolters, an ex-London fashionista who moved to Fundu Lagoon over a decade ago. And who could blame him? The fabulous combination of island simplicity and supreme style had us tempted to stay forever, too. There are 18 tented rooms with sun-warmed showers and comfy beds looking out to the blue waters of the Wambaa gulf. Sandy pathways lead past thatched sitting-areas to a long palm-fringed beach, which bristles with weird crabs and wonderful shells. And, at low tide, the stream of brightly-dressed local women walking along the beach to market beats any fashion parade.
But it’s for the diving and water sports that most guests come here: a seascape of deep inlets, mangrove coasts, coral islands and fringing reefs is a short boat-ride away. Non-divers can enjoy dhow cruises, canoeing safaris, game-fishing, intertidal coast walks or, better still, take a PADI course with the resident dive instructors - there’s no better place to learn.
Highs
- World-class diving: pristine reefs and walls
- Being so remote has allowed Pemba Island to remain relatively unknown in terms of tourism
- The sunset boat trip in the sailing dhow was a highlight of our latest revisit
- Comfortable tented rooms by the beach and a stunning hillside infinity pool overlooking the ocean
- Warm, friendly atmosphere created by the excellent staff
Lows
- Getting there takes a while (but what fun!)
- Rates are not cheap (but they're full board and include various activities)
- The beach is quite narrow, especially at high tide
- No safe boxes in the rooms, instead valuables and money can be stored away at reception; we had no concerns during our stay and felt very relaxed
- Recent feedback mentions some maintenance issues, like unreliable air-con
Best time to go
All year except mid-April to mid-June, when it is closed for the long rains. Late October, November and early December can bring short rains, which are heavy at times. Visibility is often reduced at these times, but otherwise diving and snorkelling are good year-round.
Our top tips
If you're coming for the diving, you can pre-book anything from a 1-day introduction to a multi-day Advanced, Rescue or Divemaster course. The most popular for novices is the PADI Discover Scuba Diving course: a 2-3 hour introduction to equipment and theory, followed by some basic skills and a shallow dive on a coral reef. The classic 4-day PADI Open Water Course also gets rave reviews.
There's tremendous variety in the underwater scenery too: lush coral gardens in the shallows around Pemba, drop offs plummeting to 800m, and frequent 30- to 40-metre visibility. Hawskbill and green turtles often swim and rest on the reefs, while in deeper waters you might meet the large Napoleon Wrasse, giant groupers (up to 2m), pelagic game fish (tuna, jacks, wahoo, big shoals of barracuda), manta and eagle rays and even various species of shark.
There's tremendous variety in the underwater scenery too: lush coral gardens in the shallows around Pemba, drop offs plummeting to 800m, and frequent 30- to 40-metre visibility. Hawskbill and green turtles often swim and rest on the reefs, while in deeper waters you might meet the large Napoleon Wrasse, giant groupers (up to 2m), pelagic game fish (tuna, jacks, wahoo, big shoals of barracuda), manta and eagle rays and even various species of shark.