Gramam Homestay
Cochin & the Backwaters, India
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
The warm and welcoming Neduveli family – owner Jos, his wife Lyma and their two charming sons – open their traditional Keralan home to just a few guests at a time. They've created a wonderfully relaxed and personal atmosphere, and provide a real insight into Keralan traditions and culture. Their house is on an island; a lush garden slopes past coconut palms, mango trees and shady hammocks down to the lagoons. You stay in the Garden Room (sleeps 2-3) or the separate Backwater Cottage (sleeps 2-4). Expect airy interiors, antique furniture, superb seafood curries and expert travel advice from Jos. He can arrange an overnight backwater cruise, a trip to a hill plantation, rafting, tiger trails, boating, or fishing with the locals.
Bustling Fort Cochin, with its antique shops, spice markets and kathakali dances is 10km away; to the north are long beaches and Chinese fishing nets. Borrow a bike and binoculars for birdwatching, sunbathe in the gardens, or just kick back in the hammock with a book. Whatever you do, at the end of the day, it really feels like you've come home.
Bustling Fort Cochin, with its antique shops, spice markets and kathakali dances is 10km away; to the north are long beaches and Chinese fishing nets. Borrow a bike and binoculars for birdwatching, sunbathe in the gardens, or just kick back in the hammock with a book. Whatever you do, at the end of the day, it really feels like you've come home.
Highs
- The hosts are helpful, kind and hugely informative about local life, politics, history and tradition
- They offer excellent tailored tours which avoid the hassle of tourist stalls and bus stations
- You'll get a genuine experience which you could never have by staying in a hotel – with wonderful home cooking too
- The backwaters setting is tranquil and meditative - especially the gorgeous cottage
- It's easily accessible – close to Fort Cochin, yet away from its hustle and pollution
Lows
- This isn't as stylish as other i-escape places, but it makes up for it with the warm welcome
- The neighbouring Hindu temple has evening or early morning music, so take earplugs if you're a light sleeper
- There's not a lot to do in the evenings after dinner
- The mosquitoes can be a problem – bring lots of repellent
- Sometimes the water runs lukewarm in the shower
Best time to go
From a climatic point of view, the best time to visit is from the end of November to March, when it's dry and clear, though temperatures start to rise significantly from February onwards. From May through to October there is first a southwest monsoon in June and July, then a milder northeast monsoon in mid October and November, which bring rain and wind to the whole region, especially the coast. There is often some respite from the rains in August and September.
Our top tips
If you like the anonymity and luxury of a large hotel, this isn't for you. But if you want to be warmly welcomed, eat delicious home-cooked foods and be shown around Kerala by an expert, then book in now.