Tourist Kerala is a well-trodden path, but for a more authentic experience of this corner of India, a houseboat cruise around the waterways of the vast Vembanad Lake is a chance to fully embrace its nature and vibrant culture.
Spice Coast Cruises operates seven houseboats, converted from traditional kettuvallams (cargo boats that used to carry rice and spices). On a 1-3 day cruise along the network of backwater canals, you can enjoy high-end comfort and personalised service while taking in the local landscape, with the occasional stop-off to meet villagers and learn more about their lives and traditions. The one- or two-cabin boats (for two or four guests respectively) each have a staff of three and are designed to provide a fully immersive experience. Begin with breakfast on deck, before setting off along the banks accompanied by local villagers in their dug-outs ferrying their wares (which may well include fish for that night’s dinner.) After a stop or two to explore the myriad villages that dot the shoreline, it’s back on board for an al fresco dinner as evening falls, the grill sizzles, a magnificent starscape reveals itself, and the nocturnal animals come out to play. It's nightlife, but not as you know it.
Highs
- Service is relaxed and friendly but professional. Staff consist of former fishermen, full of knowledge about the area. You also have your own personal chef!
- Sustainability – boats are powered by solar energy and vegetable oils, and life on board is designed around having minimal impact
- Despite their functional heritage, the houseboats are surprisingly spacious and sympathetically designed, with plenty of shading from the sweltering sun
- The chance to witness at close quarters this centuries-old way of life on the tranquil Keralan backwaters
- Rates include all meals and almost all activities
Lows
- There’s only water served on board – but if you want alcohol or anything else, bring your own and staff are happy to serve it
- Air-conditioning (an essential) can be quite loud in the still of night so bring earplugs
- Despite the many comforts, don’t expect 24-hour running water and electricity
- No baby cots or extra beds possible due to space restrictions
Best time to go
October to April is generally very dry, although temperatures (and humidity) rise dramatically from February until around May. June to September is monsoon season so it’s cooler but wetter.
Our top tips
This is mosquito country and they are determined. Stock up on lots of insect repellent before you travel. The air-con means the rooms are usually fine by night but early evenings on deck are when they feast. Also, bring plenty of sunscreen; the sun can be fierce and you're exposed even in the shade due to the reflection of the water.