Old Harbour Hotel
Fort Cochin, Cochin & the Backwaters, India
In a country as hectic as India, laidback Cochin, wedged between swathes of jungle on the most south-westerly edge of India, is a rare oasis of tranquility. Once a thriving trading post, the sleepy old town of Fort Cochin is a colonial gem, its white-washed porticoed buildings reflecting eras of both Dutch and Portuguese rule.
Having previously been the premises of an English tea-broking firm, Old Harbour Hotel is in a prime location within a few steps of the town's famous Chinese fishing nets, and a hop away from the Ernakulum ferry and the spice market. Owner and art-lover Edgar Pinto enlisted the help of Swiss/German architect Karl Damschen to deliver the heritage hotel concept with a fresh modern stroke, where spacious rooms and suites look out over the pretty internal courtyard or the tropical garden's lily pond.
Having previously been the premises of an English tea-broking firm, Old Harbour Hotel is in a prime location within a few steps of the town's famous Chinese fishing nets, and a hop away from the Ernakulum ferry and the spice market. Owner and art-lover Edgar Pinto enlisted the help of Swiss/German architect Karl Damschen to deliver the heritage hotel concept with a fresh modern stroke, where spacious rooms and suites look out over the pretty internal courtyard or the tropical garden's lily pond.
Highs
- Chic, serene and very well-maintained, with beautifully restored Dutch architecture, cream walls, lots of open space and interesting art
- In the evening, the restaurant terrace is filled with the soothing sounds of traditional sitar players and the gentle croaks of frogs from the lily pond
- Upbeat and friendly staff; the approach is wonderfully informal, a simple teak desk serves as the main reception
- An immaculate raised infinity pool, with sun loungers dotted around the fragrant grounds - a safe haven for families
Lows
- Pesky crows are always ready to swoop for morsels from your table so avoid sitting beneath the branches of the towering mango tree
- Some may find the beds a little hard
- From the airport, it’s about a 90-minute madly frenzied drive to the hotel (though once you arrive a very different world awaits)
Best time to go
November to March is the peak times for visitors: it's dry, not too humid and not overbearingly hot (at least until January). Outside these times room rates can fall dramatically, but you’ll have the monsoon to contend with, which brings wind and rain. October and April could offer the best of both worlds, if you’re lucky.
Our top tips
Come with a half empty suitcase - Cochin and the surrounding area is shopping paradise, particularly good for antiques, cotton textiles, sari fabrics, spices and Ayurvedic medicines.