Vismaya Lake Heritage
Lake Vembanad, Cochin & the Backwaters, India
Reviewed by
Emily Hirschberg
When Arun Prasad and his wife Smitha stumbled across an abandoned 400-year-old chieftain's house in a forgotten corner of jungle, they combined forces to save it from a fate as firewood. First, they transported it piece by piece to a small peninsula jutting out into Lake Vembanad, where it now stands among whispering palms and tropical fruit groves. Then they spent 3 years restoring it to its former glory, discovering along the way that it has considerable historical value and was mentioned in The Aithiyamala, Kerala’s version of Aesop’s Fables.
The results of their efforts are breathtaking. Stepping from the heat into the cool, dark interior is like stepping into another realm where time disappears. As you pad along the smooth stone floors, run your fingertips across the intricate wall carvings and sip the cardamom and pineapple juice delivered by your personal concierge, you’ll wonder if you’re dreaming. There are only 2 bedrooms (a double and a twin), and many guests book the whole place so they can wallow in the infinity pool, dine on delicious Keralan cuisine and lounge on the verandas in total privacy. Vismaya means ‘magic place’ and, as you sway in a hammock watching the sun set over the water, you’ll quickly fall under its spell.
The results of their efforts are breathtaking. Stepping from the heat into the cool, dark interior is like stepping into another realm where time disappears. As you pad along the smooth stone floors, run your fingertips across the intricate wall carvings and sip the cardamom and pineapple juice delivered by your personal concierge, you’ll wonder if you’re dreaming. There are only 2 bedrooms (a double and a twin), and many guests book the whole place so they can wallow in the infinity pool, dine on delicious Keralan cuisine and lounge on the verandas in total privacy. Vismaya means ‘magic place’ and, as you sway in a hammock watching the sun set over the water, you’ll quickly fall under its spell.
Highs
- A romantic and peaceful location on placid Lake Vembanad; this is decompression at its finest
- The option to take punter-boat tours straight from the jetty; trips to Alleppey, Fort Cochin and the coast can be arranged, too
- We loved the seamless fusion of traditional Keralan architecture and modern European comforts
- Flexible accommodation - the double and twin room are useful for families, and couples can book the property on an exclusive basis
- Impeccable service. Everything you need appears as if by magic
Lows
- If booking just one room, you'll be at close quarters with guests in the other room: we advise booking the whole place
- Meals are slightly pricier than the Indian norm, but the food is excellent and tailored to your tastes
- Ensuites take the form of open-air ‘bath gardens’ - they’re completely private, but you might encounter the occasional creepy-crawly
- Most staff are from the nearby village and have limited English, though you can expect genuine warmth
- No TV and limited WiFi - but you’re here to escape the outside world
Best time to go
Kerala’s high season runs from October to February, when you can count on manageable temperatures and very little rain. August and September can also bring lovely weather, and far fewer crowds. March and April are sunny but very humid, though prices are slashed drastically for those who can stand the heat. The monsoon season (May-July) is not recommended due to the open-air design of Vismaya, and the property closes for the worst of the rains.
Our top tips
The morning chorus of exotic birds will almost certainly wake you just before dawn. Take this as your calling to slink outside and watch the sun come up over the densely forested horizon, with only a dozen or so silent fishing boats dotted around the lake for company. Unforgettable.