The position here is faultless: high above the castle, with imperious views that stretch as far as the eye can see. Directly in front a thirty-mile crescent of sand curves south on the Tróia peninsular; to your left the Rio Sado sweeps west, carving out the odd lagoon before tumbling into the ocean. Sailing boats, cargo ships and ferries zip about; the historic port of Setúbal guards the banks three miles below.
Há Mar ao Luar ('moonlight-on-sea') is a quirky place with rustic, homely interiors and a pool on a terrace. There are suites in the main house, a windmill with staggering views, other hideaways nestled in the garden. You're largely left to your own devices but, if requested, breakfast can be left in your fridge the night before, so you can get up whenever you like. You can walk down the cliffside path, past the castle, into the vibrant town where ferries shuttle across to Tróia for beaches, Roman ruins, a golf course and bird watching. Perfect for couples in search of simple, understated romance, or families looking for an easy escape with shared pool and beaches nearby.
Highs
- Fabulous views of the estuary and ocean
- Quirky, self-catered accommodation, with the option to have breakfast ingredients provided
- We loved Casinha with its cosy terrace, and the windmill - Moinho du Luar - with its bed-with-a-view
- Setúbal for its old town; the peninsula for its wooded hills and secluded beaches
- Excellent value in an under-the-radar corner of Portugal
Lows
- Don’t expect hotel service, do expect peace and privacy at the top of a hill
- Some beds are on the firm side, and extra beds have thin mattresses
- The kitchenettes are simple - you'll need to head out for dinner
- Early season feedback suggests that the building needs a lick of paint, and the grounds some TLC
- The night life is at the bottom of the hill, but you are here for rustic escapism
Best time to go
Setúbal, with its peninsula and proximity to Lisbon, makes a good year-round destination. May and June are beautiful, especially for walking and country drives, though the sea is still a little chilly. Like much of the country, July and August can get pretty hot. The grape harvest festival at Palmela takes place on the first Sunday in September and is very well attended. The extremely reasonable winter rates extend throughout November-April.
Our top tips
The further east you drive, the less populated and more beautiful Portugal gets. It’s an undiscovered, untouched, utterly authentic area which has hardly changed in 150 years. Roman Evora (a World Heritage site) is an hour east on the motorway, wonderful Estramoz (a good example of a small but important provincial town) is 30 minutes beyond. Don’t miss them.
You might want to bring earplugs (against the barking dogs at night) and pool/beach towels (none are provided).
You might want to bring earplugs (against the barking dogs at night) and pool/beach towels (none are provided).
Location
Ha Mar ao Luar is 5 minutes by car outside Setúbal, 50km south of Lisbon on the coast. It is 7 minutes from the nearest railway station.
By Air:
Lisbon Portela Airport (40km) is the closest (about 45 minutes-1hour away). Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving it.
From the Airport
Jump in a taxi or hire a car (see below).
By Car:
See our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Portugal and getting around
Airports:
- Lisbon Portela 40.0 km LIS
Other:
- Beach 5.0 km
- Shops 2.0 km
- Restaurant 1.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 4 independent reviews from i-escape guests
We loved the windmill, really unique. Lovely views . The owners were so helpful and kind .. The dogs were company and the windmill cost and warm .
We could walk easily to a beach or town , although steep to walk back but plenty of taxis. A special place
We stayed in the Little wooden house. It has amazing views from the balcony and, though basic, was fine for our family (2 adults and a 6 year old). The cooking facilities are very simple (a portable 2 hob stove and microwave) but we were provided with fresh bread every morning and our fridge stocked with a variety of cheese, ham, yogurts and eggs during the stay.
The pool at the property was nice and very quiet whilst we were there.
It appears that the area has very little tourism from the UK so there isn't much English spoken/English menus etc. That said, we found enough to do over a week. The best day being a boat trip to see the Sado dolphins, booked through Bolho travel in Sesimbra. We also took the ferry and drove to Comporta which is worth doing.
Something that we found out once we were there was that the coastal road to some of the better beaches (Praia do Creiro/Galapa) was closed from 7am-8pm each day so we had to drive along the far longer top road which meant we only visited once where I thought this might be a daily trip. I don't know if this is seasonal. Also, to bear in mind, the parking for these beaches is very limited so there was a long walk once you have found parking.
Away from the hubbub of Setubal, next to the national park and overlooking the sea, so a perfect spot. Lovely pool, deadly fresh bread and very sweet team.
Left to your own devices, in a good way!
This hotel was just wonderful. Beautiful garden, amazing views, friendly staff. I look forward to staying here again.
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape