The position here is faultless: high above the castle, with imperious views that stretch as far as the eye can see. Directly in front a thirty-mile crescent of sand curves south on the Tróia peninsular; to your left the Rio Sado sweeps west, carving out the odd lagoon before tumbling into the ocean. Sailing boats, cargo ships and ferries zip about; the historic port of Setúbal guards the banks three miles below.
Há Mar ao Luar ('moonlight-on-sea') is a quirky place with rustic, homely interiors and a pool on a terrace. There are suites in the main house, a windmill with staggering views, other hideaways nestled in the garden. You're largely left to your own devices but, if requested, breakfast can be left in your fridge the night before, so you can get up whenever you like. You can walk down the cliffside path, past the castle, into the vibrant town where ferries shuttle across to Tróia for beaches, Roman ruins, a golf course and bird watching. Perfect for couples in search of simple, understated romance, or families looking for an easy escape with shared pool and beaches nearby.
Highs
- Fabulous views of the estuary and ocean
- Quirky, self-catered accommodation, with the option to have breakfast ingredients provided
- We loved Casinha with its cosy terrace, and the windmill - Moinho du Luar - with its bed-with-a-view
- Setúbal for its old town; the peninsula for its wooded hills and secluded beaches
- Excellent value in an under-the-radar corner of Portugal
Lows
- Don’t expect hotel service, do expect peace and privacy at the top of a hill
- Some beds are on the firm side, and extra beds have thin mattresses
- The kitchenettes are simple - you'll need to head out for dinner
- Early season feedback suggests that the building needs a lick of paint, and the grounds some TLC
- The night life is at the bottom of the hill, but you are here for rustic escapism
Best rooms for families
Refuge and Blue Suite can each sleep 3 adults so best for families.
Parents should know...
The (unheated) swimming pool is unfenced and has a steep drop beside it. There are a few dogs on the neighbouring property. You will need a car to get about although local taxis are not expensive
- Self-catering Hideaway
- 5 rooms
- Basic self-catering
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Babysitting
- Creche / Kids Club
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
Rooms
There's a suite with a private entrance connected to the main house, while in the garden you'll find 4 more retreats: a windmill, a couple of cabins and a huge suite tucked under the terrace. They all have a kitchenette so you can do simple self-catering with ease.
Our favourite was the Moinho do Luar (aka the windmill) which dates to 1802. Here you can lie in bed and gaze out through French windows on the ocean below - great for a special occasion.
We also loved the private Casinha, a small wooden cabin tucked into a lush corner of the garden. Throw open the glass doors and step into a small but colourful world: vibrant tiles, a day bed in the sitting room and an uncluttered bedroom. Also charming is the Refuge, which has a whole wall of glass, opening onto a private terrace.
The Blue Suite is connected to the main house, but has a private entrance. You get a bedroom and a sitting room, plus a bougainvillea-shaded terrace. Expect stripped wood floors, cast-iron daybeds, white walls to soak up the light, dining tables inside and out.
The latest addition is Sea's Hut, a rustic duplex cabin with an open plan double bedroom, sitting area, kitchenette and private balcony. Though we haven't seen it for ourselves yet, we think the secluded treehouse vibe would suit a couple seeking privacy and romance. It's a more simple offering than the others and is recommended for summer stays.
Features include:
- Central heating
- Coffee / tea making
- Cots available
- Fan
- Radio
- TV
Eating
All rooms have kitchenettes with a couple of hobs, a fridge and a microwave, so you can prepare picnic lunches or whip up pasta and soups. If you wanted to cook dinner you could, but most people retreat from the pool for a spot of home-made lunch, then head down to town for a bite in the evening. There's plenty of choice, from traditional fare to tasty fish and seafood. Equally, you could head west along the peninsular to find good fish restaurants at most of the beaches.
For a small extra fee, breakfast ingredients can be left in your room for you to prepare at a time that suits you. In the morning, small loaves of freshly-baked bread are delivered to the front door, and you’ll find your kitchenette stocked with milk and juice, cheese and ham, chocolate, butter and jam. There’s coffee and tea, too.
Features include:
- Fridge
- Full kitchen
- Kitchenette
- Microwave
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Wander the alleyways of Setúbal, filled with shops and restaurants, and browse the produce at the daily market (except Monday)
- Take to the water and search for dolphins or sail the estuary of the Rio Sado and look for flamingos (boats leave from the marina)
- Explore the Arrábida Hills and find the Arrábida Convent (it dates to the 14th century), pretty white villages, the beaches at Galapos (great scuba diving) and Portinho da Arrábida (popular fish restaurants).
- The grape harvest festival at Palmela takes place on the first Sunday in September and is very well attended; the odd drop gets drunk
- Take the ferry (passenger and car) to the Tróia Peninsula; try Tróia for Roman ruins or golf, Comporta for 30 miles of beach (don’t expect a crowd), Alcácer do Sal for the Sado Estuary (canoe trips and flocks of flamingos), Santiago do Cacém (where the Knights Templar defeated the Moors in 1157) for the well-preserved ruins of a hilltop castle and a pretty old town below.
- Lisbon is close. If you don’t want to stay in the city, but wish to visit, you can drive (40 minutes), take the train (an hour) or park the car at Almada and take the ferry across the mighty Rio Tejo
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Golf
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Sailing
- Scuba diving
- Shopping / markets
- Swimming
Best Time to go
Setúbal, with its peninsula and proximity to Lisbon, makes a good year-round destination. May and June are beautiful, especially for walking and country drives, though the sea is still a little chilly. Like much of the country, July and August can get pretty hot. The grape harvest festival at Palmela takes place on the first Sunday in September and is very well attended. The extremely reasonable winter rates extend throughout November-April.
Our Top Tips
The further east you drive, the less populated and more beautiful Portugal gets. It’s an undiscovered, untouched, utterly authentic area which has hardly changed in 150 years. Roman Evora (a World Heritage site) is an hour east on the motorway, wonderful Estramoz (a good example of a small but important provincial town) is 30 minutes beyond. Don’t miss them.
You might want to bring earplugs (against the barking dogs at night) and pool/beach towels (none are provided).
You might want to bring earplugs (against the barking dogs at night) and pool/beach towels (none are provided).
Location
Ha Mar ao Luar is 5 minutes by car outside Setúbal, 50km south of Lisbon on the coast. It is 7 minutes from the nearest railway station.
By Air:
Lisbon Portela Airport (40km) is the closest (about 45 minutes-1hour away). Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving it.
From the Airport
Jump in a taxi or hire a car (see below).
By Car:
See our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Portugal and getting around
Airports:
- Lisbon Portela 40.0 km LIS
Other:
- Beach 5.0 km
- Shops 2.0 km
- Restaurant 1.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 5 independent reviews from i-escape guests
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