Ha Mar ao Luar
Setubal, Lisbon Coast, Portugal
Reviewed by
Tom Bell
The position here is faultless: high above the castle, with imperious views that stretch as far as the eye can see. Directly in front a thirty-mile crescent of sand curves south on the Tróia peninsular; to your left the Rio Sado sweeps west, carving out the odd lagoon before tumbling into the ocean. Sailing boats, cargo ships and ferries zip about; the historic port of Setúbal guards the banks three miles below.
Há Mar ao Luar ('moonlight-on-sea') is a quirky place with rustic, homely interiors and a pool on a terrace. There are suites in the main house, a windmill with staggering views, other hideaways nestled in the garden. You're largely left to your own devices but, if requested, breakfast can be left in your fridge the night before, so you can get up whenever you like. You can walk down the cliffside path, past the castle, into the vibrant town where ferries shuttle across to Tróia for beaches, Roman ruins, a golf course and bird watching. Perfect for couples in search of simple, understated romance, or families looking for an easy escape with shared pool and beaches nearby.
Há Mar ao Luar ('moonlight-on-sea') is a quirky place with rustic, homely interiors and a pool on a terrace. There are suites in the main house, a windmill with staggering views, other hideaways nestled in the garden. You're largely left to your own devices but, if requested, breakfast can be left in your fridge the night before, so you can get up whenever you like. You can walk down the cliffside path, past the castle, into the vibrant town where ferries shuttle across to Tróia for beaches, Roman ruins, a golf course and bird watching. Perfect for couples in search of simple, understated romance, or families looking for an easy escape with shared pool and beaches nearby.
Highs
- Fabulous views of the estuary and ocean
- Quirky, self-catered accommodation, with the option to have breakfast ingredients provided
- We loved Casinha with its cosy terrace, and the windmill - Moinho du Luar - with its bed-with-a-view
- Setúbal for its old town; the peninsula for its wooded hills and secluded beaches
- Excellent value in an under-the-radar corner of Portugal
Lows
- Don’t expect hotel service, do expect peace and privacy at the top of a hill
- Some beds are on the firm side, and extra beds have thin mattresses
- The kitchenettes are simple - you'll need to head out for dinner
- Early season feedback suggests that the building needs a lick of paint, and the grounds some TLC
- The night life is at the bottom of the hill, but you are here for rustic escapism
Best rooms for families
Refuge and Blue Suite can each sleep 3 adults so best for families.
Parents should know...
The (unheated) swimming pool is unfenced and has a steep drop beside it. There are a few dogs on the neighbouring property. You will need a car to get about although local taxis are not expensive