Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
Beguiling San Rafael stands in glorious isolation between Seville and Jerez, amidst rolling fields of wheat, sunflower and cotton. The Reid family have owned this former olive farm for nearly a century and a half; the latest generation, Anthony and Patrick, have pulled it right to the top of the ‘hip hideaway’ rankings. The feel-good factor cuts in from the moment you’re greeted, at a bougainvillea-clad entrance portal, by one of the staff with a glass of chilled fino or, in the warmer months, with a fresh lemonade or iced lemongrass tea.
The rooms, casitas and pool villa are huge with a gorgeous commingling of antiques and modern art. There are base elements of the original cortijo: terracotta tile, wafer bricking, massively thick walls, shuttered windows. And wherever you stay, you'll have a private terrace, rich fabrics and rugs, freshly cut flowers and sparkling bathrooms. Pampering comes at every turn here - fabulous gardens, superb food and a choice of pools secreted away amongst groves of lemon, pomegranate, olive, and carob. You could easily while away your holiday in this blissful oasis, but allow some time for exploring too; there's a whole book of fascinating excursions, carefully curated to take in Andalucia's highlights: day trips to Seville, Ronda and the white villages, culinary tours, sherry tasting, birdwatching... the list is endless.
The rooms, casitas and pool villa are huge with a gorgeous commingling of antiques and modern art. There are base elements of the original cortijo: terracotta tile, wafer bricking, massively thick walls, shuttered windows. And wherever you stay, you'll have a private terrace, rich fabrics and rugs, freshly cut flowers and sparkling bathrooms. Pampering comes at every turn here - fabulous gardens, superb food and a choice of pools secreted away amongst groves of lemon, pomegranate, olive, and carob. You could easily while away your holiday in this blissful oasis, but allow some time for exploring too; there's a whole book of fascinating excursions, carefully curated to take in Andalucia's highlights: day trips to Seville, Ronda and the white villages, culinary tours, sherry tasting, birdwatching... the list is endless.
Highs
- Guests come first. Anthony is the perfect host and staff work around what you want; everybody gets VIP treatment at San Rafael
- Bedrooms, drawing rooms and dining room are high on grandeur - there are antiques everywhere
- Choose between any number of different corners to chill: the Sunset or Lunar bar, your private terrace, a lounger in the shade of an olive tree
- The food and wine are outstanding, our latest revisit revealed seasonal produce and fabulous Mediterranean influences
- Although the hacienda is rural, you're within day-trip distance of so many Andalucian sights and beaches, and there are heaps of excursions to choose from
Lows
- San Rafael isn't cheap but the high price tag is more than justified
- You’re out in the sticks and will probably need a car to get around. However, Seville, the sherry bodegas of Jerez, Doñana with its prolific birdlife and the Atlantic beaches are all an easy drive away
- Likewise, you’ll need to jump in a car if you are planning to eat out
- This part of Spain gets really hot in summer, but the farm’s prominent position ensures it catches the breeze and the massively thick walls of the original hacienda keep temperatures cool
- Some might find the decor of the main hacienda a little dated, but it's in keeping with the traditional grandeur of the building
Best time to go
Spring and autumn are the best times to be at San Rafael. Some people might find mid-summer something of an ordeal, even if fans and air-conditioning mean you’ll still be comfortable. It would be great to be here during the Seville feria (April/May), in April when the wildflowers are at their best or in early summer when the local romerias (religious festivals) are in full swing.
Our top tips
Anthony is a mine of information about Andalucia and is really keen to help his guests get the most out of the region. Chat to him about what you want to see and do and he'll tailor trips to your desires.