Hameau Albert 1er
Chamonix, French Alps, France
Reviewed by
Tom Bell
Chamonix is one of the few big ski resorts that lives up to its hype. The town buzzes most of the year, Mont Blanc looms with wild beauty, and Hameau Albert 1er continues to develop new levels of luxury for mere mortals to enjoy. It is a remarkable hotel, built in 1903 to welcome the arrival of the railway, and it has remained in the same family ever since - Perrine and her father are the 5th generation to take the helm. At its heart is exceptional food by chef Damien Leveau, but add a fabulous spa and some breathtaking rooms and you have the full monty - a hotel that spoils you rotten at every turn.
It is a hotel that does nothing by halves. When Perrine and her father decided to build a spa, they bought 3 ancient mountain farmhouses, dismantled them, brought them to Chamonix and reassembled them in the garden. The bedrooms are now split between one of these, La Ferme (divinely traditional), and the main house (strikingly contemporary); most have terraces or balconies, several have woodburners, all have lovely bathrooms. For families and groups there are apartments and chalets (sleeping 2-6). As for Chamonix, you’ll find big skiing and excellent après-ski in winter, and mountain biking and hiking when the snow's melted. Don’t miss the Panoramique Mont Blanc cable car in summer, either; a magical 5km ‘flight’ across snowy mountain tops.
It is a hotel that does nothing by halves. When Perrine and her father decided to build a spa, they bought 3 ancient mountain farmhouses, dismantled them, brought them to Chamonix and reassembled them in the garden. The bedrooms are now split between one of these, La Ferme (divinely traditional), and the main house (strikingly contemporary); most have terraces or balconies, several have woodburners, all have lovely bathrooms. For families and groups there are apartments and chalets (sleeping 2-6). As for Chamonix, you’ll find big skiing and excellent après-ski in winter, and mountain biking and hiking when the snow's melted. Don’t miss the Panoramique Mont Blanc cable car in summer, either; a magical 5km ‘flight’ across snowy mountain tops.
Highs
- The skiing. Tremendously long runs, stunning views and challenging off-piste. There's a free shuttle service to and from the slopes and staff can arrange lift passes
- The spa with its indoor/outdoor heated pool in the shadow of Mont Blanc
- The Restaurant Albert 1er: Michelin-starred food may be expensive, but it sure tastes good. There's also a bistro restaurant for more relaxed fare
- The romantic rooms in La Ferme - cool mountain chic like never before
- The middle of town is a 5-minute stroll away, with buzzing bars and clubs
Lows
- A buffet breakfast with cold bacon and eggs is not what you expect of a hotel with a Michelin star. It's not included in the rates and it's pricey
- As are the bigger rooms - the ones you really want to be in
- Deposit and cancellation policies vary according to the hotel's occupancy; you'll get full details when you enquire
- Chamonix’s slopes suit expert skiers better than average ones and queues at lifts are common
- No air con in the La Ferme rooms - not ideal in summer - but others do, including the chalets and rooms in the main house
Best time to go
The best months for skiing are December-early April. Chamonix is then at its quietest from mid-April to the end of May, and from mid-October to the end of November. Lots of restaurants close in these months, as do some of the ski lifts and cable cars. Chamonix gets exceptionally busy again in the summer months. June and September can be good times to visit if you want a summer holiday - lower hotel prices, fewer people, less hassle. The hotel closes anually from mid-November until early December, and from mid-May to the end of May.
Our top tips
There’s a shortcut into Chamonix - the gate at the side of the main house. It’ll save time and avoid the busier roads. It’s secure and you buzz to get in and out, then 2 minutes later you’re in the heart of town. The more obvious route - up the drive to the main road - takes an extra 5 minutes.
Whatever activity you're doing, if you're heading into the mountains it’s worth taking some sort of first aid kit with you just in case. Also take a little food, as well as lots of water.
Whatever activity you're doing, if you're heading into the mountains it’s worth taking some sort of first aid kit with you just in case. Also take a little food, as well as lots of water.