Helen Browning's Royal Oak
nr Swindon, Wiltshire, United Kingdom
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
In the pretty hamlet of Bishopstone, tucked at the foot of the Wiltshire Downs, Helen Browning (Soil Association CEO and organic farming pioneer) has created a little haven of good food, sound sleep and healthy outdoor living, with help from her partner Tim Finney and a wonderfully enthusiastic young team.
This is far more than a pub. A second building houses 12 quirky bedrooms with farmy artworks, blissful mattresses, clawfoot tubs and the odd designer piece; plus a 'Wallow' room for table football, old vinyls to spin, and a wide-ranging honesty bar. There are shady gardens and sheltered outdoor dining spots to relax with a book, or a pint of golden Arkells, or a plate of succulent home-grown pork belly with salsa verde and fresh picked salad. A small shop sells organic produce (mostly their own), while down the lane lies a private campsite by a secluded brook, and grassy picnic spots where you can graze on one of their lovingly crafted hampers. Around you are 1500 hectares of mixed working farm to explore, ideally as part of a guided farm safari. Spot rare corn buntings, trilling skylarks, wheeling kites; visit rewilded hedgerows and experimental fruit orchards; watch piglets snuffle at your feet. Or head off along the ancient Ridgeway trail to the White Horse and Iron Age fort of Uffington. This is a wonderful opportunity to disconnect from devices and reconnect with nature.
This is far more than a pub. A second building houses 12 quirky bedrooms with farmy artworks, blissful mattresses, clawfoot tubs and the odd designer piece; plus a 'Wallow' room for table football, old vinyls to spin, and a wide-ranging honesty bar. There are shady gardens and sheltered outdoor dining spots to relax with a book, or a pint of golden Arkells, or a plate of succulent home-grown pork belly with salsa verde and fresh picked salad. A small shop sells organic produce (mostly their own), while down the lane lies a private campsite by a secluded brook, and grassy picnic spots where you can graze on one of their lovingly crafted hampers. Around you are 1500 hectares of mixed working farm to explore, ideally as part of a guided farm safari. Spot rare corn buntings, trilling skylarks, wheeling kites; visit rewilded hedgerows and experimental fruit orchards; watch piglets snuffle at your feet. Or head off along the ancient Ridgeway trail to the White Horse and Iron Age fort of Uffington. This is a wonderful opportunity to disconnect from devices and reconnect with nature.
Highs
- We love the friendly, low-key vibe which Tim and his team have created: a warm, sincere welcome, including dogs and muddy boots
- Our farm safari was an unexpected highlight: James' passion ranges from yellowhammers to riverine ecosystems
- Dinners and breakfasts are simply delicious: you can't beat the meat for freshness!
- The location is ideal for a weekend break from London, Bristol, or the Midlands: all within 1-2 hours' drive
- Superb value too, with rooms starting from £100 or less
Lows
- In terms of services, this is more pub than hotel (no reception desk, for example); but there's always someone around to help
- No drawers or wardrobes for storing belongings, which could be annoying for longer stays
- Apart from Uffington's White Horse and hillfort, there are no stellar 'attractions' here: just miles of beautiful rural countryside
Best time to go
Any time - it's open all year, and each season has its draws. Summer is perfect for al fresco dinners, gentle walks, wild orchids, maybe a dip in the brook. Autumn is ripe for woodland colours and starling murmurations. Spring offers wild flowers, foraging workshops, bluebell woods. Don't rule out winter: woodburning stoves, cosy bedrooms and still plenty of farm activity.
Our top tips
If you're remotely interested in animals, birds or soil, the guided farm safari is well worth 2 hours of your life: James helped us spot corn buntings, yellowhammers, golden plovers, lapwings and skylarks, introduced the livestock (including a snout-to-snout with inquisitive saddleback piglets), explained the farming and rewilding processes, and showed us the exotic fruit orchard (planted to test feasibility) - all with passion and precision.