Hotel Antumalal
Pucon, Lake District, Chile
Reviewed by
Emma Whiteacre
Sepia photos in the entrance hall look like a cool interiors montage, until you realise the portraits and landscapes are a snapshot of the hotel's own story. Visiting dignitaries share space with vistas of an erupting Volcano Villarica, whose molten lava destroyed the owners' first hotel. A smiling Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip, on a fishing holiday in 1968, take centre stage. And the story of how Guillermo and Catalina Pollak, immigrants from Czechoslovakia in 1938, persuaded the president of Chile to finance their hotel gives Antumalal a place in the country's history.
The hotel is now in the hands of Rony Pollak, the founders' daughter, and the emphasis on service and luxury remains. However, it's starting to attract a younger audience with a taste for adventure. Rooms have huge picture windows; airy living areas present a stylish combination of iron furniture, colourful cushions and goat skin rugs. A cosy bar comes complete with roaring hearth and leather chairs; the dining room and terrace overlook the beautiful grounds and Lake Villarica. Delightfully low-key, it feels as though you could be in a wealthy friend's private house. Glorious.
The hotel is now in the hands of Rony Pollak, the founders' daughter, and the emphasis on service and luxury remains. However, it's starting to attract a younger audience with a taste for adventure. Rooms have huge picture windows; airy living areas present a stylish combination of iron furniture, colourful cushions and goat skin rugs. A cosy bar comes complete with roaring hearth and leather chairs; the dining room and terrace overlook the beautiful grounds and Lake Villarica. Delightfully low-key, it feels as though you could be in a wealthy friend's private house. Glorious.
Highs
- The stunning sunset over the lake, which gave Antumalal its name ('Corral of the Sun' in Mapuche)
- The abundance of flowers and 26 different species of native trees in the gardens - go in March to see trees festooned with copihue, the red bell-shaped national flower
- With a lake on your doorstep and volcanoes, hot springs and white-water rivers nearby, there's no shortage of outdoor activities
- We loved the small but delightful details, such as a chocolate-covered strawberry left at turndown service
- Architecturally very interesting - a classic 50s Bauhaus design by Chilean architect Jorge Elton, which Wallpaper magazine declared 'retro chic'
Lows
- Although beautifully furnished and maintained, there's a slight sense of faded glory - the Queen's visit would have been during its heyday
- Go at the wrong time of year (April-October) and those fabulous surroundings might be marred by rain
- It seems a shame that bedrooms in the main hotel don't have balconies to maximise the views
- Some bedrooms in the chalets are smaller, with limited views - better for younger children, perhaps
Best time to go
Spring, summer and autumn (October-March) are all great. Spring is best for flowers, summer for making the most of many of the activities, autumn for escaping the crowds and enjoying the colours (although it's cooler and wetter). Winter is also an option if you are a keen skier.
Our top tips
The hotel grounds play host to 35 different endemic bird species, so it's the perfect spot for birdwatchers. For outdoor activities in general, layering is key - even during the hottest months take fleeces and wind/rain-proof jackets for mountain activity, and in winter be sure to take hats and gloves. Casual wear, swimwear and sports shoes are also recommended.