Hotel Petrohue
Petrohue, Lake District, Chile
Reviewed by
Elizabeth Delliere
Situated between the towering outline of the Osorno volcano and a blue-green slice of Lago Todos Los Santos (fed by glacial rivers and waterfalls), the setting alone is enough to draw people to this hotel. Deep in Chile’s oldest national park, Vincente Perez Rosales, the drive over volcanic overspill and alongside the tumbling turquoise waters of the Petrohue river leads to a clearing in virgin forest by the lakeshore, wherein stands the 20-room Hotel Petrohue and 4 lakeside cabins.
After a fire in 2002 the hotel was completely rebuilt in wood and stone, and now resembles a large Alpine chalet. Simple but comfortable interiors continue the theme, with a warm combination of pale wood, open fires and fine views of the lake, mountains and forest offering a taste of what lies beyond. And once inspired (it won’t take long), simply step outside amongst this serene natural setting and into the hotel’s Expediciones centre, from where, with everything from climbing to canyoning, the adventure really begins.
After a fire in 2002 the hotel was completely rebuilt in wood and stone, and now resembles a large Alpine chalet. Simple but comfortable interiors continue the theme, with a warm combination of pale wood, open fires and fine views of the lake, mountains and forest offering a taste of what lies beyond. And once inspired (it won’t take long), simply step outside amongst this serene natural setting and into the hotel’s Expediciones centre, from where, with everything from climbing to canyoning, the adventure really begins.
Highs
- The setting, even when it rains, is truly spectacular
- Hiding away in your own wooden cabin
- Canyoning down beside a rushing waterfall, high on adrenaline as the spray coats you, to finally make it back down to earth and dive into the pool below
- Fly-fishing in crystal-clear azure rivers on the south side of the lake - one of my most memorable experiences in 20 years of travelling
- At the end of an exhilarating day, taking a dip in the indoor/outdoor swimming pool and curling up by the crackling fire
Lows
- Rain showers are a regular feature for most of the year; sun-seekers should go during the summer months (December-March)
- In December and January watch out for large horse flies, known as Tabanos, and throngs of tourists making the lake crossing on their way to Bariloche, Argentina
Best time to go
The main season runs from November to April - the Chilean spring/summer, when all activities are possible. It's also worth visiting in autumn, when it's still very beautiful for simply relaxing and hiking. The small ski resort being built on the volcano means that even winter brings its own draw. The area is prone to rain all year but is wettest in July and driest between January and March. The maximum temperatures in summer are around 20C, though sometimes it can reach 28C; the minimum is around 8C. In winter, the maximum is about 12C, even reaching 16C, and the minimum can drop to 3C.
Our top tips
Make sure you take a boat to one of the islands in the centre of the emerald green lake - if nothing else, it gives you a spectacular view of the volcano and waterfalls cutting through rocks and forest, and it’s a pretty memorable place for a picnic. Or take the ferry boat from Petrohue to Peulla at the other end of the lake - from where you can walk up to a stunning waterfall or along the picturesque road to Bariloche through alpine meadows.