Reviewed by
Tom Bell
OK, so you’re more likely to stick to the coast and roast away on those magical beaches, but if you take a moment to look behind you, you’ll always find a mountain or two looming in the distance. The truth is, Corsica is an island of mountains, and while most tourists spurn them for the coastal plains, this is where to come if you want to discover the Corsican soul. It goes without saying they are utterly magnificent: switchback roads, wind-sculpted peaks, ancient villages teetering on the side of steep hills, shepherds herding 200 sheep down a mountain pass. As for the light, it plays in the valleys with infinite wonder: the beauty here is divine.
This cool little hotel in the village of Bastelica gives you the chance to explore in comfort. Built in 2010, it mixes hip design with old-fashioned mountain simplicity. Downstairs, walls of glass ensure you never lose the view; upstairs, beds are slotted into bay windows that frame the mighty mountains. The ground floor is open-plan: reception gives way to a small library/sitting room, which, in turn, gives way to a splendid restaurant serving locally produced, fresh and flavoursome food. Doors open onto a lovely garden - tiny lawn, stone terrace, even a plunge pool, and 10-mile views. Scale a peak, spot the sea below, then drop down to Ajaccio (40 minutes by car) for a swim. There are ski slopes up the road, too.
This cool little hotel in the village of Bastelica gives you the chance to explore in comfort. Built in 2010, it mixes hip design with old-fashioned mountain simplicity. Downstairs, walls of glass ensure you never lose the view; upstairs, beds are slotted into bay windows that frame the mighty mountains. The ground floor is open-plan: reception gives way to a small library/sitting room, which, in turn, gives way to a splendid restaurant serving locally produced, fresh and flavoursome food. Doors open onto a lovely garden - tiny lawn, stone terrace, even a plunge pool, and 10-mile views. Scale a peak, spot the sea below, then drop down to Ajaccio (40 minutes by car) for a swim. There are ski slopes up the road, too.
Highs
- Lying in bed and watching the sun come up over the mountains - just magnificent
- The winding roads, the chestnut forests, the fabulous hiking, the tiny villages. And Le Lac de Tolla 2km away, where you can swim, kayak or hire a pedalo
- The small garden with its huge views - a lovely spot for breakfast in summer
- Prices are excellent by comparison to other hotels on the island
- Ajaccio - only 40 minutes by car - for the airport, beaches, shops and Napoleon’s house
Lows
- You'll need a car to get here
- None of the 10 bedrooms are big, and there are no twin rooms
- No lunches served and the restaurant's dinner menu is set, but staff will discuss dietary options with you in advance, and the food is delicious and fresh. Note that dinner is usually closed September-May
- The baths/showers, thinly disguised by a half-wall but basically in your bedroom - not to everyone’s taste
- In some bedrooms the mountain view is obscured by garden trees
Best time to go
The hotel is closed for a month in late November/early December, but apart from this stays open all year. There’s snow in winter and you can ski a little further up the valley. Spring is gorgeous, as is autumn when the leaves turn. And as you’re up in the mountains, it’s cooler than the coast in summer.
Our top tips
Don’t expect to get anywhere quickly on Corsica’s mountain roads. If you drive as fast as safely possible, expect to hit the giddy heights of roughly 40km/hour. There are 2 reasons for this. First, the winding roads and hairpin bends are not made for speed. Secondly, you will be stopping regularly to take in yet another ridiculously beautiful view. If it’s any consolation, no road on Corsica is particularly fast. This is the land of slow travel!