The first Royal Customs House of the Pacific Coast was built in Patzcuaro, in the 1540s. In perfect hacienda style, with a wraparound veranda and a sunny central courtyard, it's a gem of colonial architecture. In 2004 it opened as an intimate hotel - one of the best in Mexico, thanks to its artist owners Gemma and Didier. All who stay are captivated by the art, which ranges from a funky collection of Mexican dolls to an exquisite carving of the Virgin and Child. From the lemon verbena tea brought to your room in the evening to communal breakfasts at the long table by the open fire, the attention to detail is enchanting. The casa may not be open to children, but this is in no way a precious period piece.
Time your visit if you can to coincide with a recital - perhaps rousing classical guitar on the candlelit patio, or a piano solo in the hotel's music room. The situation, too, cannot be faulted, a step from the Plaza Grande. Best of all, you're made to feel at home from the moment you arrive.
Highs
- Warm, gracious and artistic owners
- Exquisite restoration of a listed house
- Fascinating collection of art and crafts from all eras
- Enchanting patios and a central courtyard garden
- Regular concerts in the music room or on the veranda
- Loving attention paid to every detail
Lows
- Children aren't welcome
- There are noisy firecrackers when religious festivals take place in town - a small price to pay!
- Food offering is limited to a (hearty) continental breakfast each morning
Best time to go
It can get chilly in the mornings and evenings between October and April, as Patzcuaro is quite high up in the mountains. Bring layers including warm clothing year round. The rainy season encompasses the summer months, but most days have a warm spring-like climate.
Our top tips
Some of the largest and best-known Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico take place in Patzcuaro. Visit on 1-2 November and you'll see chanting and prayers, colourful processions and traditional games whereby children 'steal' food from houses for a large community dinner.
Location
Hotel Casa de la Real Aduana is in the historic centre of the lakeside town of Patzcuaro, in Mexico's central highlands.
By Air
Morelia International (95km away) is the closest airport. It has regular domestic links from Mexico City and some international services from the US - click on the links below for a list of airlines.
From the Airport
The airport is an 80-minute drive from the hotel. Transfers can be arranged (see Rates), or you can hire a car (see below).
By Car
If you wish to hire a car, see our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Mexico and getting around
Airports:
- Morelia Francisco J. Múgica International 95.0 km MLM
Other:
- Beach 300.0 km
- Shops 0.1 km
- Restaurant 0.1 km