Reviewed by
Liz Simpson
Bump your way through the colourful cobbled streets, past capoeira dancers, hecklers and hippies, deep into Salvador's Pelourinho district, once the Portuguese capital of Brazil. You’re bang in the middle of a UNESCO World Heritage town, and you’d be mesmerised if you weren't so hot and tired from the journey. Which is why the Casa do Amarelindo is such a glorious respite. Step through its tall archways into a tranquil reception area and let the cool terracotta floor, whitewashed walls and tropical courtyard soothe your mind.
Take the lift to your room and enter a totally quiet and sunny space. The vast kingsize bed promises hours of sleep; the air con blows out welcoming cool air. Soundproofed French doors mean you won’t be disturbed by the street noise below, but step onto your balcony and you’ve got the perfect vantage spot for vibrant Bahian life. What’s more, there’s a roof terrace with a panoramic view of Todos os Santos Bay, and a swimming pool to beat the heat. You’re at the heart of the action, yet one step removed.
Take the lift to your room and enter a totally quiet and sunny space. The vast kingsize bed promises hours of sleep; the air con blows out welcoming cool air. Soundproofed French doors mean you won’t be disturbed by the street noise below, but step onto your balcony and you’ve got the perfect vantage spot for vibrant Bahian life. What’s more, there’s a roof terrace with a panoramic view of Todos os Santos Bay, and a swimming pool to beat the heat. You’re at the heart of the action, yet one step removed.
Highs
- The roof-top swimming pool and bar are an absolute joy, as Salvador can get very humid. At the time of our last visit, Casa do Amarelindo was still the only hotel in the area to offer this
- Right in the heart of the historic Pelourinho district of Salvador, yet the rooms are beautifully quiet
- Excellent dinners in the ambient restaurant, plus tasty tapas and cocktails on the roof terrace
- Friendly service from French owners Gilles and Didier, and the whole of their team
- Simple but stylish décor, and the entire hotel is well maintained
Lows
- Can be tricky to find and most of the area is blocked off to taxis - the hotel have a company who can operate right to their door, just ask!
- Pelourinho swarms with touts and tourists in peak season; walking to and from Casa do Amarelindo without being harangued is no mean feat
- Not recommended for children under 14 - a high for some!
Best time to go
If you really want to experience Salvador (particularly the Pelourinho district) at its loudest and most wild, go during Carnaval (February or March, depending on the year) which Brazilians say is more participatory than Rio's. It always begins on a Thursday night and ends the next Wednesday - in between 2 million party-goers hit the streets for an orgy of dancing and drinking. Throughout the year Tuesday nights in Pelourinho are like mini-festivals with live street music and dancing. The rainiest months in Salvador tend to be April-July.
Our top tips
Location is key here - you are just off the main square along a pretty and buzzy cobbled street with lots of little shops, cafes and galleries. You can explore the Pelourinho area right from your doorstep. The area is famous for its wandering samba bands, pretty coloured houses, magnificent churches and quirky galleries and shops - you can easily lose half a day trotting around. At night, there are various different live music venues to explore - ask the hotel reception for tips as they alternate each night.