Géraldine greets you with sparkling eyes, Namibian bracelets jangling on her wrists. She is all ebullience and energy, grabbing your bags and pouring rosé before you can protest. Hotel des Colonnes is her baby (along with Betty, the French bulldog and unofficial hotel mascot, who rarely leaves her side). After a whirlwind tour of the downstairs spaces — the leafy garden, communal kitchen, art-filled salon and her boutique, which is choc-full of goodies from gold-trimmed bikinis to vintage sewing bobbins — she sweeps you up the stuccoed staircase to your room (one of 3) where you can sink into bed or ogle the décor, which is equally eclectic. In our suite: a pair of 18th-century dolls’ feet under a bell jar on the mantelpiece. Tin toys. Taxidermy. There’s a down-the-rabbit-hole feel to the entire experience, yet the mod cons are there when you need them: rain showers, WiFi, TV.
There’s plenty to captivate you in the area, too. On the doorstep, Riez has a traditional market twice a week. Further afield, you can kayak and river-raft through cliff gorges, rock-climb and hike, swim in aqua-colored lakes, photograph lavender fields and wander the winding streets of Provençal villages that dot the countryside. Return home to Geraldine's wonderful home cooking or dine out in friendly village bistros - she'll point you to the best ones.
Highs
- A perfect pit stop between the chic Mediterranean coastal cities and the classic Provençal villages of the interior
- Excellent prices for this part of France; renting the whole house is extremely good value
- The dramatic Verdon gorges are ideal for sports and nature lovers
- The effervescent ‘esprit’ and cheerful guidance of Géraldine. She will take very good care of you
- Picnics and meals on request (also available if booking the whole house): delicious Provençal fare. We had a zingy heirloom tomato salad and an irresistible pissaladière tart, thick with olives and anchovies
Lows
- With only 3 rooms and a gregarious hostess, it may be too intimate and sociable for some
- Not for minimalists — or for those who don't like taxidermy
- Riez isn’t postcard-perfect, but it's authentic and less touristy
- Some guests complain of noise from the main square on mid-summer nights, though we didn’t experience any
- A late check-in time (4.30pm)
Best time to go
We visited in June, which was utterly lovely. Géraldine recommends coming in June or September, when the weather is good and the area isn't overrun with tourists. Her busiest period is from July 10 through the third week in August.
Our top tips
Géraldine is an extraordinary hostess — down-to-earth, warm, ebullient, funny — and she’s connected to a coterie of like-minded independent hotel owners in the area. She is happy to help you fashion a personalised itinerary, sending you into the welcoming arms of her buddy-boutique hoteliers throughout Provence, such as Metafort in Méthamis.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests
Geraldine and Pop were charming and helpful hosts, running this 17th century rustic mansion in the very sleepy village of Riez. The nearby mountain, lake and gorges offer breathtaking views - and some memorable meals.
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape