Hotel El Manantial del Silencio
Purmamurca, Salta & Northwest, Argentina
Reviewed by
Christabelle Dilks
Fling wide the windows in the morning: the view from your room is the vivid red, cream, green and aubergine rock of the celebrated Cerro de Siete Colores (the 'Rock of Seven Colours'), peeping between golden fringes of tall poplars beyond the quiet village of Purmamarca.
Since the spectacular 150-mile valley of Quebrada de Humahuaca was declared a World Heritage site, hotels have mushroomed in the main towns of Tilcara and Humahuaca. Purmamarca alone remains blissfully tranquil, despite a trickle of tourists perusing the handicrafts market in the plaza. El Manantial del Silencio is in keeping with its spirit: a white monastic-style building, with spare wrought-iron details. Inside, luxury comes in wide spaces, flamboyantly coloured locally woven rugs, carved wood, 19 comfortable bedrooms, a small spa and a separate house. The cuisine is award-winning and the pool is gorgeous. The elegant simplicity instills a sense of peace, allowing you to unwind and absorb the ancient serenity of Andean culture. This hotel truly lives up to its name: 'the wellspring of silence'.
Since the spectacular 150-mile valley of Quebrada de Humahuaca was declared a World Heritage site, hotels have mushroomed in the main towns of Tilcara and Humahuaca. Purmamarca alone remains blissfully tranquil, despite a trickle of tourists perusing the handicrafts market in the plaza. El Manantial del Silencio is in keeping with its spirit: a white monastic-style building, with spare wrought-iron details. Inside, luxury comes in wide spaces, flamboyantly coloured locally woven rugs, carved wood, 19 comfortable bedrooms, a small spa and a separate house. The cuisine is award-winning and the pool is gorgeous. The elegant simplicity instills a sense of peace, allowing you to unwind and absorb the ancient serenity of Andean culture. This hotel truly lives up to its name: 'the wellspring of silence'.
Highs
- A glorious setting - nowhere else in this valley, deeply carved by the Rio Grande in Jujuy province, can you enjoy such a vista
- A clever combination of peaceful simplicity in the décor, but with real comfort: excellent beds, good bathrooms and a welcoming lounge
- Superb food - chef Sergio Latorre was invited to Italy’s Slow Food event for his reinvention of local dishes
- A swimming pool (summer only) with mountain views, plus a small spa with an indoor Jacuzzi
- Stunning hikes around the Cerro de Siete Colores - plus cycling and horse riding through the manager’s travel company, Sendas Andinas
Lows
- The service can be patchy at times: the restaurant staff are excellent, but don’t expect top-hotel service on reception. The pace of life is slow in the Quebrada, and you might need to adjust!
- It's a chance to practise your Spanish: few staff speak English
- This is a place to retreat from the modern world: don't expect all the mod cons
- It's not the cheapest hotel in the area, but it's certainly the nicest
Best time to go
Purmamarca is delightful all year round. Summers can be rainy, with short torrential downpours; winters are bright and sunny, and chilly only in the evenings. Book ahead for the Argentine holiday periods of January, February, Easter and July. Easter has a very special ceremony in Tilcara when thousands of pan pipe musicians descend on the town for a religious pilgrimage. While this is most definitely worth seeing, all hotels are booked up months in advance.
Our top tips
Remember that you’re at 2,200m above sea level and might be affected by the altitude: don’t run anywhere, walk slowly, eat lightly, and drink plenty of fluids.