Hotel Endsleigh
Tamar Valley, Devon, United Kingdom
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
What a setting! From the oak-panelled drawing room where we sit with Earl Grey tea and cream-laden scones, our gaze sweeps over a rainbow of flowering borders and a neat croquet lawn, across the Tamar, and loses itself in the dark conifer forests of the far bank: the start of Cornwall. There is not another building in sight. Immense copper beeches and Douglas firs stand sentinel over tumbling brooks, a Victorian shell grotto and an octagonal dairy house surely inhabited by pixies.
It's little wonder that the Duke of Bedford, who 2 centuries ago owned a third of Devon, chose this spot for his hunting and fishing lodge. Now Grade-I listed and converted into an enchanting hideaway by Olga Polizzi and her hotel-inspecting daughter Alex, it draws a discerning, romantic clientele, who savour the fine cuisine, the private fishing, the landscaped grounds, the crackle of newspapers and fireplaces at tea time, and the deep, bucolic silence outside. In summer, those who can afford it block-book the place for lavish weekend weddings in the most idyllic of surrounds (married life, as my wife observed, could only go downhill after that). The 21 classically English bedrooms and suites are a study in painted wallpapers, roll-top bathtubs, book-lined shelves and snugly quilted beds; there's also a separate gatekeeper's cottage ideal for a couple with children.
It's little wonder that the Duke of Bedford, who 2 centuries ago owned a third of Devon, chose this spot for his hunting and fishing lodge. Now Grade-I listed and converted into an enchanting hideaway by Olga Polizzi and her hotel-inspecting daughter Alex, it draws a discerning, romantic clientele, who savour the fine cuisine, the private fishing, the landscaped grounds, the crackle of newspapers and fireplaces at tea time, and the deep, bucolic silence outside. In summer, those who can afford it block-book the place for lavish weekend weddings in the most idyllic of surrounds (married life, as my wife observed, could only go downhill after that). The 21 classically English bedrooms and suites are a study in painted wallpapers, roll-top bathtubs, book-lined shelves and snugly quilted beds; there's also a separate gatekeeper's cottage ideal for a couple with children.
Highs
- A beautiful location midway between Dartmoor and Bodmin Moor; you've also got superb hiking and riding on your doostep
- Wonderfully romantic (candles flickered throughout when we last visited), though families are warmly welcomed, too
- The beds (many of them kingsize) are blissfully comfy, and the widely spaced layout ensures total silence
- We loved the lavish afternoon teas, and lingering over pre-dinner drinks in the fire-lit lounge and library
- Smiling, ever-helpful staff who are clearly passionate about the historic lodge and estate
Lows
- The focus here is quiet refinement - it's not for those seeking a vibrant party atmosphere
- Dinner is a set-price (though very tasty) affair, and it's a drive to other eateries if you fancy something more informal
- A few of the bedrooms are under the eaves or on the small side, but this is reflected in the rates
- You're as far from the sea as you can be in Devon or Cornwall (25 miles from Boscastle or Looe) - if you want seaside, try their sister hotel Tresanton
Best time to go
Any time of year. Summer is stunning, with the gardens in full bloom, but be prepared for some crowds on the coast. We really enjoyed our autumn visit, when the trees were shedding the last of their fiery red leaves and the Tamar was half hidden beneath wisps of mist. Winter would be ideal for a romantic break, with roaring fires, scones, books and frost-covered lawns.
Our top tips
If you're going back to Bristol or London, start along the country lanes heading northeast and stop off at Brentor to climb the windswept hill, which is topped by the ancient church of St Michael de Rupe and offers lung-cleansing panoramas over an emerald patchwork of fields. If time allows, you could even slot in a visit to the deep, moss-lined gorge at Lydford, before joining the A366 and then the A30 at Sourton Down.