Thirty years ago, the powder-soft sands and warm turquoise sea of Xpu-Ha bewitched the Italian Duchess of Ferrari to such an extent that she commissioned a Mexican architect to build her a holiday house there. And what a holiday house: a 50-acre estate of perfectly manicured lawns dotted with palm trees, backed by the tropical jungle and fronted by that dazzling white beach. She spent several years in fleeting residence, but finally decided to share her slice of paradise, so crafted her home into a hotel in 2006, adding extra rooms in the greenery behind the white stucco main house.
A glorious fusion of Caribbean colours, Mayan heritage and sleek modernity, Hotel Esencia is a world away from Playa Del Carmen - and very much retains its tranquil, elegant roots. Its 42 rooms are spoiling and decadent - pristine white, with sumptuous bathrooms and private terraces. The restaurants are some of Mexico’s best - choose between a cool beach shack serving grilled seafood and ceviche, a smart steak restaurant with a Michelin-starred team or a laidback cafe for light meals. And don't miss the perfectly zested margaritas. And its organic spa is the stuff relaxation dreams are made of, with open-air massage rooms, herb-scented steam rooms and thermal Jacuzzis.
But what really sets Esencia apart is its incredibly friendly service towards families and couples alike, and its relaxed overall vibe. And the complimentary afternoon tea served in the comfortable salon gives the hotel a sociable villa feel, just as the Duchess intended.
Highs
- Spoiling little touches include pre-breakfast coffee and pastries delivered to your room, yoga classes, Havaianas, help-yourself minibars, and couples' palapas on the beach
- It's fantastic for families, with free babysitting, a kids’ pool, and thoughtful activities in the holidays
- The airy spa has its own herb garden, housed in a circular Mayan-inspired building, with open-air massage tables and decadent treatments
- The fabulous rooms and suites are very private, spacious and squeaky clean. Some have plunge pools or hammocks, and a couple have cinema rooms
- The excellent staff quickly know you by name
Lows
- Exclusivity comes at a cost; food and drink is (we felt) overpriced, and there are unexpected costs too
- We also felt a little uncomfortable at the use of towels (3 per person just for your sun lounger) and small water bottles (although these are recycled)
- If you come in school holidays, be prepared for quite a few families
Best time to go
High season is mid-December to April, when it's typically drier and cooler (mid 70Fs- mid 80Fs). May to early December is low season, when prices are usually substantially reduced. Temperatures and rainfall rise from May to October, with average highs reaching into the 90Fs. During the Mexican summer (July and August) it can be extremely hot with daily bursts of rainfall. Although it can rain at any time of year along the coast, September and October are generally the wettest months and have the greatest risk of hurricanes.
Our top tips
Once settled at Esencia, it's difficult to do anything energetic, such is the relaxed ambiance of the place. But do borrow the free snorkels and masks and the free paddleboards for exploring the nearby reefs - we spotted turtles and rays whilst paddling over the bay.
As the garden rooms are enclosed by jungle, they tend to attract more bugs and mosquitoes so bear this in mind if you tend to get bitten.
As the garden rooms are enclosed by jungle, they tend to attract more bugs and mosquitoes so bear this in mind if you tend to get bitten.