Reviewed by
Ben Reed
In a city dripping with elegance, it’s hard to stand out. But this 16th-century canal-side palazzo dazzles with its strikingly flamboyant makeover. Sumptuous (but not chintzy), historic (but not stuffy) and lavishly Baroque (but not vulgar) - it's a hard mix to pull off, but the owners have got it spot on. After years spent hunting the perfect building to host their vision, the doors of this crumbling palace were flung open and - Eureka! - a hotel was born. Faithfully restored keeping the original layout, the exposed brickwork, polished marble floors and beamed ceilings provide the canvas for bold art and playful furnishings. 10 rooms offer superb beds and free-standing tubs; 2 large piani nobili house sitting rooms with opulent Murano chandeliers and a grand piano. If all this overwhelms, the antidote can be found in the walled garden, a haven of tranquility for alfresco breakfasts and afternoon naps.
Tucked away in laid-back Cannaregio, the hotel provided the magic of Venice we were looking for. Nearby bàcari serve cicchetti (light bites) to local artisans and canal-sides buzz with drinkers lapping up the last rays of sun. We hear grumbles of Venice losing its allure, but this hotel left us completely under its spell.
Tucked away in laid-back Cannaregio, the hotel provided the magic of Venice we were looking for. Nearby bàcari serve cicchetti (light bites) to local artisans and canal-sides buzz with drinkers lapping up the last rays of sun. We hear grumbles of Venice losing its allure, but this hotel left us completely under its spell.
Highs
- A peaceful canal-side setting in authentic Cannaregio, where you're worlds away from the hordes of tourists and tat shops
- Stunning interior design flair all wrapped up in a 16th-century palace
- The peaceful shaded garden is a rarity in Venice. It’s blissfully quiet apart from the birds
- While the building is palatial the service is warm and very friendly
- The owners have remained true to the original palazzo layout, which means you get lots of communal space
Lows
- No restaurant on-site, but there are lots of excellent options within a short stroll, and a snack menu at the bar
- It’s a bit of a hike (20 mins or water taxi) to the main sights, but if you're looking to explore hidden Venice it's a fine location
- No twin rooms
- While they accept children, all that precious art on display may invite little wandering hands
Best time to go
Spring (April/May) and autumn (Sep/Oct) can be wonderful times to visit – days can be sunny and ideal for exploring. Avoid high summer if you can; Venice swelters and tourist numbers can overwhelm. If you don’t mind risking the biting cold and a bit of rain, winter will give you the chance to explore the city without the crowds (except mid-Feb, when the Venice Carnival begins).
Our top tips
Relax and enjoy the private garden with a good book in the day; then explore the city at dusk when the light is beautiful and the crowds have dispersed.