Reviewed by
Maia Tarrant
Set in Catalonia’s scenic northeastern corner, just outside the tiny village of Pau and close to a ruggedly beautiful stretch of the Costa Brava, this chic yet unpretentious 17-room retreat is a great place to unwind à deux. It’s flooded with natural light and decorated in calming shades of white and taupe, with modern art and a hint of rusticity. Gorgeous views stretch over palm trees towards the mountains, and vibrant bougainvillea dots the courtyards and terraces. Everywhere you turn, the omnipresent scent of lavender creates a serene country feel.
Take the mountain bikes for a spin through the surrounding vineyards to quaint coastal villages, or explore the beaches, museums and nature reserves nearby. Not that you need to venture out: there’s an infinity pool for lazing, a small spa in a converted wine cellar for heavenly massages, and a panoramic terrace where you can sip the produce of the hotel’s own vines. As for the food in the intimate candlelit restaurant, it’s quite possibly the best we’ve ever had.
Take the mountain bikes for a spin through the surrounding vineyards to quaint coastal villages, or explore the beaches, museums and nature reserves nearby. Not that you need to venture out: there’s an infinity pool for lazing, a small spa in a converted wine cellar for heavenly massages, and a panoramic terrace where you can sip the produce of the hotel’s own vines. As for the food in the intimate candlelit restaurant, it’s quite possibly the best we’ve ever had.
Highs
- The tranquil, oh-so-romantic ambiance
- Stylish rooms and suites, many with huge bathtubs and terraces gazing out over the olive trees
- Divine Catalan cuisine: we still dream about that parmentier and poached egg with truffle emulsion...
- Great service from young, friendly and attentive staff
- A short drive from the Bay of Rosas (one of Catalonia's best beaches), the Cap de Creus Natural Park, and Dalí's haunts in Figueres and Cadaqués
Lows
- It's best to have a car to get here and get around, although transfers can be arranged
- It fills up quickly, so book well in advance
- Not ideal for kids (very quiet, with no twin rooms), though suites have sofabeds and there’s a 2-bedroom apartment
- There’s a small road nearby, but we didn’t notice any noise
- Many rooms have open-plan bathrooms (not for everyone), though toilets are enclosed
Best time to go
Catalonia is lovely from early spring to late autumn. May and September are ideal, with warm sunshine, clear beaches and quiet roads. July and August are much busier, and you’ll need to book far ahead.
Our top tips
Drive the curvy road to boho-glam Cadaqués, a whitewashed village of narrow, hilly streets that was made famous by Dalí, who lived in nearby Port Lligat. It’s a great spot for a relaxed seaside lunch.