Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
If you thought the Aeolian Islands were all about summer crowds, noisy parties and arid landscapes, then think again. Tucked away on the quiet side of Salina, the largest and greenest of the 7 islands, Hotel Signum lies half-hidden among Malfa's citrus groves, flowery fields and winding lanes. From its jasmine-scented gardens and sunset-facing terrace, you look up to looming peaks and down over indigo seas - which are 10 minutes away, if you fancy a dip.
The hotel itself (a restored residence with newer pastel-coloured extensions) has something of the French country house in its sofa'd drawing room, oil paintings, fer forgé beds and balconies opening onto blossom and birdsong. Bedrooms may not be the most contemporary in style, but they're spacious, comfy, and elegant (in an old-fashioned, rustic way). It's also family-run, family-friendly and refreshingly unpretentious, with a long 8-month season which appeals to discerning travellers.
The hotel itself (a restored residence with newer pastel-coloured extensions) has something of the French country house in its sofa'd drawing room, oil paintings, fer forgé beds and balconies opening onto blossom and birdsong. Bedrooms may not be the most contemporary in style, but they're spacious, comfy, and elegant (in an old-fashioned, rustic way). It's also family-run, family-friendly and refreshingly unpretentious, with a long 8-month season which appeals to discerning travellers.
Highs
- Superb Sicilian food in the Michelin-starred restaurant
- Welcoming family owners and good service from 20+ young staff
- A secluded retreat from the summer crowds, and well-placed for boat trips, hikes and the gorgeous Pollara beach (the cast stayed here when filming Il Postino)
- Beautiful gardens, plus a big (though rather enclosed) pool and a terrace-bar with views to Stromboli
- Spa with thermal steam baths, mineral-rich hydrotherapy and intoxicating beauty treatments
Lows
- Rooms, though charming, are quite simple and rustic; some are a little dark
- The pool gets busy in summer
- Most Superior Rooms have garden views; for sea views you need to pay extra
- There are occasional (small) groups, and some rooms get noise from the breakfast area
- Food can be pricey - but the Michelin star proves it's worth it
Best time to go
Summer is extremely busy: you need to book 2-3 months ahead to be sure of finding a room, and prices shoot up for the Italian holiday month of August. It's also very hot. It's much better to come in spring (April to early June) or autumn (September or October) if you can: temperatures are balmy (both swimming and hiking are comfortable) and prices are lower. If you come in late March or early October, you will also have the island almost to yourself - though be prepared for some rain and for some shops and restaurants to be closed. The hotel is closed from mid-November to mid-March.
Our top tips
Don't even contemplate staying for less than 3 nights: the journey from anywhere outside Italy, even using helicopter transfers, takes a full day - which only leaves 2 days on the island.