Parrots fly free in the rainforest, cool rivers run through green valleys and caves, and when the sun goes down, the sky is bright with stars. Few foreigners have yet discovered this 5,000ha – larger than the state park that borders it - private reserve and sustainability initiative nearly 3.5 hours north of Rio, where nature rules. The centrepiece of the community inhabiting this reserve is a 18th-century farmhouse of Fazenda do Engenho, one of Brazil’s finest examples of colonial architecture that has been sensitively restored to its elegant beauty. Now called Engenho Lodge, it houses eight suites, plus there's a house for 6 in a secluded corner of the vast reserve, and some super-private lofts and houses in a nearby village. Wherever you choose to stay, you'll find unique bespoke design mixing local, rustic heritage and 21st-century amenities, and stables of Mangalarga horses.
Guided two-daily excursions on foot explore the reserve's natural wonders, caves and valleys, and afterwards you can sink into loungers or the hot water Jacuzzi by Engenho’s courtyard and unwind with a frosty caipirinha. The wonderful spa offers massages and well-being rituals using oils infused with local herbs and plants, plus there are daily yoga classes to balance your mind, too. And the service and welcome are second to none. A stunning place to eat (a handful of restaurants dot the reserve), escape and rejuvenate with a sense of adventure.
Highs
- You are looked after like royalty: recent guests talk of surprise picnics in the forest, and owners who become your friends
- A sensational location in Minas Gerais, surrounded by rainforests and the best of rural Brazil’s landscape
- Two restaurants provide fantastic food, drawing on local specialties; meals are included, too!
- The suites are a great size, with rustic chic design and pampering 'surprise' extras. There are private houses and lofts, too
- The whole project is a truly innovative endeavour to preserve local habitats and to empower local communities and culture
Lows
- News of the community project has yet to get outside Brazil and you could be the only guests, especially if you stay midweek
- It’s a 3.5 hour drive from Rio, but in a country as gigantic as Brazil, that's not so bad (or there's a helipad and airstrip, if time is tight)
- It’s expensive but it’s worth every penny
- It’s an immersive experience within nature, so if you are not open to wildlife... well, you will have to be!
Best time to go
April - September is the best time to visit; winters are dry and cold while summers can be rainy. In winter (June - August) the temperature is between 15-20 celcius (5-10 degrees at night) but summer (December - Februray) temperatures lie between 25-35 celcius (15-20 degrees at night).
Our top tips
Look out for surprises hidden in the forest – including sculptures of renowned artists larger than a rainforest tree. Meeting the wildlife so close is also remarkable – they are free yet they come to you in all their cheeky, wild glory. Toucans interacting with you during your morning yoga class? Yes please!
Before hitting the hay, try a complementary sip of the sugarcane spirit liqueur. The owners are renowned local producers and their collection is vast. According to ‘local belief’, an after dinner shot enhances digestion and makes you sleep like a baby. We wonder how?
Before hitting the hay, try a complementary sip of the sugarcane spirit liqueur. The owners are renowned local producers and their collection is vast. According to ‘local belief’, an after dinner shot enhances digestion and makes you sleep like a baby. We wonder how?
- Eco Lodge
- 13 rooms, 2 lofts, 4 houses
- Restaurants onsite
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Plunge Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
Rooms
Across the 5,000-hectare reserve, accommodation is split between two areas. Engenho offers a more typical hotel experience, with suites, a restaurant, spa, and lounge all under one roof. The suites, lofts and houses in the Village are great for anyone looking for more independence and a taste of authentic rural life.
Engenho
Engenho Lodge has eight large suites, which are decorated uniquely, with a large dose of elegant rustic flair. The Engenho Suites have beds made up with 100% Egyptian cotton linen. You also get comfortable armchairs, bathrooms with underfloor heating, copper showers and freestanding Victorian-style tubs. One of the suites has a stunning marble bath in the main bedroom hidden behind long green drapes. Some have views from their baths, towards the hills, the lake and the countryside beyond.
Families or groups will like Carlinhos House, set away from the main lodge, with its own private stream and garden. It has three double bedrooms (each with their own bathroom), a living room, a kitchen and an outdoor bathtub with incredible views.
Village
To experience life in a rural community, opt for accommodation in the Village, set 9km away from Engenho. Ibiti has refurbished buildings in the village of Mogol, creating suites, 1-bedroom lofts and whole houses for up to 4 that are traditional in style and feel wonderfully private.
The lofts each have a double bedroom, living room, and outdoor bathrooms. Humboldt Loft (sleeps 2-4) has a small kitchen and a private balcony with beautiful views; Freud Loft (sleeps 2-3) features imaginative décor inspired by its psychoanalyst namesake.
The five Wangari Maathai Suites are perfect for couples who don't need the extra space of the lofts. Each has a queensize bed and ensuite shower bathroom. They vary slightly in size; our choice would be Wangari 3, the largest, because of its veranda and hammock.
Families should book one of the 2-bedroom houses. Guimaraes Rosa (sleeps 4) and Thomas Sowell (sleeps 4) both have 2 large suites across two floors, bathrooms with showers and tubs, a living area, kitchen and balconies that look out to the mountains.
All rooms bring together local handicrafts and culture in wall hangings and wooden furniture with little luxuries like Bose Sounddocks and L’Occitane Brasil toiletries.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Bathrobes
- Central heating
- Cots available
- Hairdryer
- In-room treatments available
- Plunge pool
- Safe box
- Toiletries
- WiFi
Eating
Exploring authentic Brazilian cuisine is a delight here - the food is delicious and there are a couple of restaurants on the reserve. Ingredients showcase the immense potential of Brazilian staples; fruits and vegetables are from the reserve and region.
Guests staying at Engenho Lodge have their meals in Engenho Restaurant, while those in the Village eat at Yucca. Picnics can also be provided; lunch by the waterfall, with fruit juice cooling in the fresh-water stream nearby, was a highlight of our stay.
Breakfast is a spread of warm corn bread, homemade cakes, platters of sliced fruits, and meats and cheeses. Juices are just squeezed; the coffee is freshly ground. Most produce comes from the reserve’s own orchards.
Lunch and dinner at Engenho Restaurant make use of the restaurant’s wood-burning stove and include the likes of suckling pig, chicken in brown sauce, polenta with sausage and salads. There's a good wine list too – the hotel works exclusively with award-winning wines from Brazil and Chile, and staff can recommend food and wine matches if you ask.
Yucca (in the Village) serves a completely veggie menu. Creative, plant-based Minerian cuisine, following the garden-to-table philosophy, is enjoyed in an open dining/kitchen space, so you can watch as your food is prepared. Located close to the village is Gaia Café, offering traditional coffee and fresh produce grown right there on the farm.
Guests are welcome to reserve tables at either of the restaurants in advance, though it's worth noting that only meals eaten at your accommodation's restaurant are included in the room rate (in other words, if you are staying in the Village and want to eat at Engenho, or vice versa, it comes at additional charge). For those staying in the lofts and houses with kitchens (and looking to cook something yourself), meals can be served mise en place on request.
Features include:
- All meals included
- Bar
- Communal dining
- Organic produce
- Restaurant
- Room service
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- Walk, ride beautiful Mangalarga horses or borrow a bike: enjoy the views and experience the nature reserve in all its glory at your own pace
- Or join in the guided tours. All are with local guides from the Ibitipoca reserve and are done on foot or horseback; there are 2 every day. We loved the Hawk Stone Tour, which takes in local villages, valleys and mountains, and stunning waterfalls
- Other highlights include the Tree of Seven Knights, a huge and remarkable ancient hollow tree (included in many tours), and the Gruta das Andorinhas (Swallows’ Cave), which is 30m long and has views of a 6m high waterfall from inside it
- Botanists can admire wild orchids, bot and bromeliads, as well as numerous native forest species including manacá da serra, ipe and kapok trees. There's heaps of wildlife to spot too, if you're lucky: Muriqui monkeys, wild boar, jaguars and ocelots, puma and wolves
- Relax in the spa with views of the lake and mountains; there are a range of massages available. All treatments aim to bring you closer to nature - oils are make using herbs, plants and essences found in the reserve itself (even choosing a herbal tea from the garden)
- Join a morning or afternoon yoga class - from yin-yoga to ashtanga. Finish with meditation
- Spend the day at Engenho’s Waterfall, a spot with natural pools and white sands, comfortable sunbeds and excellent Brazilian caipirinhas from the bar
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Beach volleyball
- Birdwatching
- Fishing
- Hiking
- Horse riding
- Meditation
- Mountain biking
- Plantlife / flora
- Private guided tours
- Swimming
- Traditional cultures
- Wildlife
- Wine tasting
- Yoga
Kids
Children of all ages are welcome. The reserve is a wonderful place for children to explore and learn about the environment, flora and fauna, as well as the farm.
Best for:
Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
The Guimaraes Rosa, Thomas Sowell and Carlinhos Houses are great for families (the latter being the largest, sleeping 6). Engenho Suites can fit a rollaway bed, and the lofts have space for one or two extra beds. Baby cots are available.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Comuna do Ibitipoca is set in a forest reserve in the Mantiqueira Mountains near Lima Duarte, in southeast Minas Gerais. It's a 3.5-hour drive from Rio, and 1.5 hours from Juiz de Fora. Transportation should be arranged prior as the reserve doesn’t have yet its own shuttle service and the remote location lacks public transport.
By Air:
Most people will fly into Rio de Janeiro (250km) and drive here. There are also flights from São Paolo to Juiz de Fora, and an airstrip at the farm, which can be accessed by small plane; there are helipads at all points of accommodation. Please enquire for further details.
From the Airport
For independent travellers, we'd recommend hiring a car, please see our car rental recommendations. The 3.5-hour drive from Rio is marvellous - through the mountains of Petrópolis, a former royal colonial town, and through the coffee valleys of Rio and Minas Gerais States. The reserve has secure parking.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com
More on getting to Brazil and getting around
Airports:
- Juiz de Fora 80.0 km JDF
- Rio de Janeiro 250.0 km
Other:
- Beach 300.0 km
- Shops 2.0 km
- Restaurant 2.0 km