Solar da Ponte
Tiradentes, Minas Gerais, Brazil
Reviewed by
Nikki Tinto
A short flight (or 5 hours' drive) inland from Rio, in the state of Minas Gerais, lies Tiradentes, an enchanting village of leafy squares, Baroque churches and cobbled streets. Set against the Sao Jose mountains, it's utterly picturesque. Solar da Ponte, "the house on the bridge", is a landmark in the state despite never being advertised. So renowned are its owners, English nature-lover John Parsons and his Brazilian historian wife Ana Maria, that throughout Brazil any talk of Tiradentes will invariably include the Parsons and their charming traditional country inn.
This colonial-style manor house with its 18 rooms, all elegantly furnished with antiques, local artworks and fresh flowers, has been nurtured over the last 30 years to become the very best of its kind. It's deeply civilized: afternoon teas are a highlight, whilst its gardens with orchids growing in the trees and visiting marmosets never let you forget where you are. A good excursion from Rio.
This colonial-style manor house with its 18 rooms, all elegantly furnished with antiques, local artworks and fresh flowers, has been nurtured over the last 30 years to become the very best of its kind. It's deeply civilized: afternoon teas are a highlight, whilst its gardens with orchids growing in the trees and visiting marmosets never let you forget where you are. A good excursion from Rio.
Highs
- Located in one of South America's most perfectly preserved colonial villages, with film and culinary festivals in January and August respectively
- The owners are a great source of local information and will help organise excursions, hikes and riding
- Comfortable, tastefully decorated bedrooms
- Delicious breakfast and afternoon tea
- Pretty garden and swimming pool
- The wonderful scent of ylang ylang flowers as you enter the gates
Lows
- No children under the age of 8 (a bonus for some!)
- The rattling of trucks over the cobblestones can be heard from some rooms
- There's no restaurant in the evenings, but there are many good eateries within walking distance
- It's popular with Rio folk so getting availability at weekends can be difficult
Best time to go
December-March can be hot with heavy rain, but at 3,000 feet it's never as humid as Rio and the evenings are generally cool. Lent, between Carnaval and Easter, is quiet with lots of interesting Easter processions. The 4 Sundays leading up to Easter also feature an orchestral 200-year-old Mass service. April, May and June are the best months, when everything is green but it's drier with cool evenings. October until Christmas has a pleasant climate and is very quiet. Come in the middle of January for the international film festival or at the end August for one of Brazil's best culinary festivals.
Our top tips
Bring your hiking boots - John used to be a keen walker and has great knowledge of the region. There's also an excellent little agency nearby, which organises excursions on foot, horseback or bicycle. One route crosses the mountain to a mineral-water swimming pool.