Reviewed by
Nikki Tinto
Situated in a 15-acre adobe-walled estate in Marrakech’s Palm Grove, Jnane Tamsna ("Big Garden") is a luxurious country villa with 24 guest rooms, spread over 5 houses, that can be booked individually or exclusively. Big by any measure - scale, style, ambition, heart, range of activities - yet informal, relaxed and endlessly welcoming, the property reflects the huge knowledge and warm presence of the owners. Charismatic Meryanne Loum-Martin, a French-Senegalese lawyer-turned-designer (and pioneer of understated Moroccan style), and her charming husband Gary Martin, an American ethnobotanist - aim to offer a personalised stay with an unusual cultural slant.
Beyond lazing by one of the five swimming pools (yes, five!), playing tennis or being soothed by aromatic in-room massages, guests may take advantage of their private Diversity Excursions led by local university-educated guides that will take you off the beaten tourist track - behind the medina's closed doors, into herb shops and landmark gardens, or out to the nearby countryside to learn about Moroccan customs, cuisine and art. But whether you choose to relax or explore, the Martins will go out of their way to ensure your stay in Morocco is an unforgettable one.
Beyond lazing by one of the five swimming pools (yes, five!), playing tennis or being soothed by aromatic in-room massages, guests may take advantage of their private Diversity Excursions led by local university-educated guides that will take you off the beaten tourist track - behind the medina's closed doors, into herb shops and landmark gardens, or out to the nearby countryside to learn about Moroccan customs, cuisine and art. But whether you choose to relax or explore, the Martins will go out of their way to ensure your stay in Morocco is an unforgettable one.
Highs
- The ultimate treat to the senses, from the fragrant flower-lined courtyards, exquisite design and blend of rich colours to the five pools and candlelit roof terrace, all of it surrounded by an extraordinary garden
- In contrast to many other upscale riads, the atmosphere here is not hushed and intimidating; children will feel as welcome as honeymooners, and there are imaginative activities on offer for them in school holidays
- A perfect bohemian venue for a wedding or private party
- Delicious food, a fusion of Mediterranean/Moroccan/Senegalese and Indian cuisine utilising organic produce from the gardens
- The owners' presence is felt everywhere: in the antiques, the artworks, the collection of books to borrow, Gary's botanical tours, Meryanne's dinner recommendations...
Lows
- The flip side of the peaceful Palmeraie is that taxis are a must since you’re a 15-minute drive from the centre of town, but these are easily arranged
- The effects of an unforgiving climate are noticeable on paintwork and furnishings - this isn't an uber-smart and perfectly polished place - which adds to the relaxed air
- The rooms don't have TVs or minibars; but that's not their style - and staff will serve you drinks at any time, or even bring a TV to your room if you ask
- Service is good, but note the buildings are spread out so it can take longer to deliver
- Unfortunately, the best doesn't come cheap
Best time to go
The estate is open year-round. Marrakech is baking hot in the summer months of July and August, so Meryanne advises coming for a week in hot weather so you get acclimatised. The best times to visit are certainly the spring and autumn. By the end of October, the evenings are cold, although the midday sun is still warm enough to bask in. The weather in winter, from November to March, ranges from cold and rainy to sunny days, warm enough to sit outside. As Jnane Tamsna is one of few places in Marrakech to have heated swimming pools (two of them), there is swimming almost all year round.
Our top tips
Bring an empty suitcase! Not only is there superb shopping in the Medina, Meryanne also has a permanent pop-up shop in which the inventory is ever-changing. Here you can find handwoven fabrics, lampshades, pillows, loafers, ceramics, glassware, jewellery and more.