Most visitors to Sri Lanka make a beeline south from Colombo to Galle or beyond; but savvy travellers head the other way. Two and a half hours' drive north of the capital, the Kalpitiya coast remains as wildly beautiful and undisturbed as when it emerged, in 2009, from long civil unrest. Endless sandy beaches are dotted with kitesurfer shacks, coral reefs and the odd small resort; spinner dolphins perform amazing acrobatic displays, and there are blue whales too.
But it's not all back to basics. Set amid dunes and swaying palms 150m from the ocean’s edge, this chic, ochre-coloured 2-bedroom villa is a luxurious take on barefoot beachside living. Lofty ceilings allow breezes to waft through the open-plan lounge and diner, the bedrooms are within earshot of waves lapping on the shore, and the ensuite bathrooms have fabulous open-air showers. The housekeeper Sisera and private cook Indrani ensure you're well looked after, but otherwise the villa, its lush gardens and its private swathe of beach are all yours, bar the occasional visiting turtle. If you tire of lazing on the veranda or dozing in the hammocks, you can wander 300m along the sand to the small beach club at Bar Reef Resort, for boat trips, watersports and a laid-back bar.
Highs
- The best of both worlds: you get the privacy of a villa, with a chef on hand and access to pools at neighbouring resorts
- The house works equally well for one family or two couples (there's loads of space); and even for one couple (there are reduced rates)
- Sisera and Indrani run it with real joy and passion; they made our stay so easy and effortless, and Indrani's tasty Sri Lankan feasts were outstanding
- Wonderful ocean views and beach access - start your days watching fishermen put out to sea, and end them gazing at the sun sinking into the waves
- Plentiful watersports and the chance to see dolphins and turtles, plus birdlife nearby, and leopards at Wilpattu
Lows
- It’s quite isolated, with no nightlife and little to do in wet weather
- Dolphin sightings aren’t guaranteed (particularly outside November-April), and boat trips can be early (6-7am) and bumpy
Best time to go
The weather and sea are at their best from November to April, and dolphins and whales are most visible from December to February. However, be prepared for some rain at times, especially in December. May to September can be very windy - ideal for kite- and windsurfing, but not for swimming, sunbathing or boat trips. It's worth noting that this is the sort of place where rain cancels out most of the fun.
Our top tips
Bring essentials such as sun cream, mozzie repellent, antihistamines, painkillers and sanitary products. There's a basic shop in the nearby village, but otherwise local facilities are limited.
We think 3-4 nights here works well as part of a longer tour of northern Sri Lanka. There's no minimum stay requirement, which is handy.
We think 3-4 nights here works well as part of a longer tour of northern Sri Lanka. There's no minimum stay requirement, which is handy.
- Beach Villa
- 2 bedrooms
- Private chef (+ restaurant nearby)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Laundry Service
- Massages available
Rooms
This is a gorgeous pad. Expect graceful indoor-outdoor living, with "rooms" that flow wall-lessly into each other and out to the leafy garden. Ceilings are high, with overhanging eaves framing ocean views, and the expansive smooth screed floors are peppered with starfish pebble mosaics.
There are 2 beautiful, cool and airy bedrooms with large four-poster beds; both have sea views and huge open-air ensuite shower bathrooms. Adjoining the larger of the bedrooms is a separate sitting room with cushion-strewn daybeds that can sleep another 3 people if required.
At the heart of the villa is a vast and airy living space with chaise-longues, planter-style chairs and a huge wooden dining table seating 10. One side opens out on to a wide, west-facing veranda that stretches along the entire length of the building, with low tables and loungers that are perfectly placed for spectacular sunset views.
The villa also has a fully equipped kitchen, though you’ll barely set foot in it as private cook Indrani is on-hand to rustle up Sri Lankan feasts. Outside are 6 acres of grounds, with coconut groves, hammocks and a large pond stretching down to a private swathe of pristine white sand.
Features include:
- Fan
- Hairdryer
- Mosquito net
- WiFi
Eating
This may be a villa rental, but it's no self-catering holiday. The private cook, Indrani, is on hand to whip up meals, and housekeeper Sisera (Indrani’s husband) will sit down with you every morning to plan the day’s dishes - including any dietary requirements or preferred spice levels. Expect top-notch Sri Lankan fare using the freshest of local ingredients and fishermen's hauls - delicious vegetables and coconuts from the gardens feature too. Best of all, meals here cost a fraction of resort prices! Note that meat and fish cost extra.
Our meals were a real treat - devilled king prawns, grilled fish and chicken curries served with a dazzling display of vegetable dishes, sambals, salad, chutneys and crispy poppadums. At breakfast we had plates groaning with fresh fruit, plus eggs, toast and an assortment of jams accompanied by refreshing juices. Afternoon teas (hot drink and cake) were also a delight.
Beer and soft drinks are available, as is a limited selection of wine. If you’d like other wines or spirits it’s worth bringing them with you, as they're hard to come by on the peninsula.
If you fancy a change of scene you can wander over to the laid-back Bar Reef restaurant, where guests tend to mingle in the thatched pavilion overlooking the beach.
Features include:
- Full kitchen
- In-house cook
- Kids' meals
- Organic produce
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Laze on the veranda with a book, snooze in a garden hammock, arrange a massage, sun yourself on the sand, or wander over to Bar Reef Resort (just 300m away) to bathe in its ocean-facing infinity pool
- Try your hand at a wide range of watersports including kayaking, catamaran sailing, kite- and windsurfing (best from May-November), water-skiing, boogie boarding and donut rides. It's best to book in advance
- Take a dawn boat trip to spot spinner dolphins (best from November to April). It’s worth the early start: sightings aren’t guaranteed, but on a good day you’ll see dozens of these graceful creatures leaping out of the water, performing back flips and riding the boat’s wave. If you’re lucky you might see blue whales, too
- Another boat ride will take you out to coral reefs where you can snorkel alongside tropical fish, stingrays and Loggerhead turtles
- Take a day trip to Wilpattu National Park (1-2 hours' drive away), which boasts one of the highest concentrations of leopards in the world (as well as elephants, sloth bears and samburs)
- Birdwatchers could make a day trip to Anawilundawa Bird Sanctuary for plovers, herons, stilts, egrets and sandpipers; out at sea you might spot white-bellied sea eagles, skuas and terns
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Boat trips
- Dolphin watching
- Historical sites
- Kayaking
- Kitesurfing
- Plantlife / flora
- Sailing
- Snorkelling
- Surfing
- Swimming
- Traditional cultures
- Whale watching
- Wildlife
Kids
This is a child-friendly beach hideaway, with plenty of space for families. Older kids are more likely to enjoy the watersports, watching dolphins and turtles, and taking safari trips to Wilpattu. The pool at Bar Reef Resort has a separate shallow area where children of all ages can splash around.
Best for:
Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
One of the 2 bedrooms can be set up as a twin, and there are 6 sofabeds. A baby cot is also available.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Baby equipment:
A baby cot is available on request.
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Children's meals:
Indrani generally cooks Sri Lankan food, but she can prepare child-sized portions and milder versions of her meals on request.
Kids Activities nearby:
- Dolphin-watching
- Boat trips
- Snorkelling
- Boogie boarding
- Kayaking
- Kite-surfing
- Windsurfing
- Donut rides
Families Should Know:
The sea here is normally safe, with no strong currents, but be aware that there are no lifeguards on the beach or by the pool at Bar Reef Resort.
Distances:
- Airport: 2-3 hours
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Kalpitya Beach House is set on the Kalapitya Peninsula, which separates the Puttalam lagoon from the Indian Ocean, in the northwest of Sri Lanka. It’s a 3-hour drive from the capital Colombo.
By Air
Sri Lanka's only international airport is Colombo Bandaranaike International (110km / 2-3 hours away).
From the Airport
The simplest solution for overland travel is to hire a car and driver for the duration of your holiday, as this will also come in useful for day trips. Enquire through our Tailormade Tour Operator. Alternatively, airport transfers can be arranged, or you can book a car through the official taxi service in the airport.
By Public Transport
You can take a bus from Colombo to Puttalam. Staff can arrange to collect you from there.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Colombo Bandaranaike International 110.0 km CMB
Other:
- Beach 0.1 km
- Shops 1.0 km
- Restaurant 0.3 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 2 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape