
Koh Samui is growing up. Its perfect stretches of sand may still rock to the beat of global party-goers, but away from the hotspots the island is reinventing itself as a retreat for world-weary spa-seekers. Detox has replaced drugs; relaxation is the new rock'n'roll. And serenity certainly reigns at Kamalaya, one of the most spectacular additions to Samui’s blossoming spa scene.
Tucked away in the undeveloped southeast of the island, Kamalaya’s architecture blends perfectly into its unspoilt surroundings, trickling alongside lily ponds and bathing pools, down the hillside to a pristine stretch of white sand. Specifically created as a space for healing and rejuvenation, the ambience is a luxuriant blend of ethereal bohemia and clean-lined Asian aesthetics. Stylish suites and vast villas hide amongst the tropical jungle, not to mention steam rooms, rock pools, massage beds, yoga pavilions, tai chi classes and a monk's cave for meditation. But alongside its sincere commitment to an ‘unfolding of the spirit’, Kamalaya is never ashamed of being utterly indulgent.
Tucked away in the undeveloped southeast of the island, Kamalaya’s architecture blends perfectly into its unspoilt surroundings, trickling alongside lily ponds and bathing pools, down the hillside to a pristine stretch of white sand. Specifically created as a space for healing and rejuvenation, the ambience is a luxuriant blend of ethereal bohemia and clean-lined Asian aesthetics. Stylish suites and vast villas hide amongst the tropical jungle, not to mention steam rooms, rock pools, massage beds, yoga pavilions, tai chi classes and a monk's cave for meditation. But alongside its sincere commitment to an ‘unfolding of the spirit’, Kamalaya is never ashamed of being utterly indulgent.
Highs
- A magical place of rejuvenation: everything is geared towards gentle self-discovery and improvement, plus the stylish villas mean non-participating partners will be quite happy
- Even the ubiquitous 'Samui detox' is different: delicious, cleansing dishes rather than starvation and clay shakes
- Excellent staff throughout, from magical masseurs to unbidden waiters bringing iced water as you emerge from the waves
- Our 3-day 'Relax & Renew' package was the perfect end to an exhausting trip through southeast Asia: a blissful blur of head massages, meditation, yoga classes and long lunches
- And a big thumbs up from us for their sleep enhancement therapies: perfect for those with sleeping difficulties
- Kamalaya is understandably popular with solo travellers; many single women comment on how safe and welcome they feel
Lows
- Its spiritually-minded philosophy and close-knit atmosphere is not for cynical or private types
- Mosquitoes, frogs and lizards abound - though bedrooms are well protected and insect coils provided (and lit for you)
- If staying less than 7 nights, first-time guests must book a wellness programme alongside accommodation and cannot just book a room
- The steep hillside makes for some thigh-strengthening strolls up to dinner and down to the beach (buggies are available for less mobile guests)
Best time to go
Kamalaya is open year-round but we think the best time to visit is between May and September, which avoids both the rainy season (not just showers but also mosquitos, frogs and snails) and the heat (stifling in March-April). January and February are also lovely, but can be busy. In any case, the natural environment makes Kamalaya beautiful all year round, and there's plenty to keep you busy indoors if it's wet.
Bear in mind that Thailand has 3 festive peak seasons: western New Year (December-January), Chinese New Year (February; depends on the lunar calendar) and Thai New Year or Songkran 13-15 April. They are vibrant times to visit but also busy and expensive.
Bear in mind that Thailand has 3 festive peak seasons: western New Year (December-January), Chinese New Year (February; depends on the lunar calendar) and Thai New Year or Songkran 13-15 April. They are vibrant times to visit but also busy and expensive.
Our top tips
I recommend the 3-day Relax and Renew package, which I found wonderful and extremely relaxing - perhaps a day too short, but you'd probably say that even if you stayed a fortnight.
I arrived on the back of a long research trip through southeast Asia, feeling extremely travel weary: hardly in the mood for forging new spiritual paths, let alone the kind of serious soul mining Kamalaya inspires. But a deep sleep in the natural cocoon of the sea-view villa, with the sound of the waves lapping at the shore and a long lazy breakfast, set me up for my wellness consultation. My nurse was gently encouraging and reassuringly well informed, so when she told me that my ‘Bioimpedence Analysis’ was excellent – 2 points below that of an athlete – I started to feel more inclined towards the whole experience (and a teensy bit proud, I admit).
The treatments started with some intense hands-on healing on the massage bed, followed by deep breaths in the steam room and passive meditation in the rock pools. It was bliss. To check that it was still me in there, I tiptoed up the jungle path for a quiet moment with some burning incense in the cosy monk’s cave, where Kamalaya has its sacred origins.
In the course of my holiday, I dipped into optional kundalini meditation classes, practiced some long-forgotten yoga moves, did a 'Martial Arts for Fun' session on the beach, and booked massages most mornings and afternoons. Hand, Foot and Oil massages, head massages, a restorative Thai massage – all were simply magical. In between I found time for a few quick dips in the ocean, some long lunches in poolside shalas, and delicious restaurant dinners watching the scenery grow in the evening rains. Three days later, I gently floated back down to earth.
I arrived on the back of a long research trip through southeast Asia, feeling extremely travel weary: hardly in the mood for forging new spiritual paths, let alone the kind of serious soul mining Kamalaya inspires. But a deep sleep in the natural cocoon of the sea-view villa, with the sound of the waves lapping at the shore and a long lazy breakfast, set me up for my wellness consultation. My nurse was gently encouraging and reassuringly well informed, so when she told me that my ‘Bioimpedence Analysis’ was excellent – 2 points below that of an athlete – I started to feel more inclined towards the whole experience (and a teensy bit proud, I admit).
The treatments started with some intense hands-on healing on the massage bed, followed by deep breaths in the steam room and passive meditation in the rock pools. It was bliss. To check that it was still me in there, I tiptoed up the jungle path for a quiet moment with some burning incense in the cosy monk’s cave, where Kamalaya has its sacred origins.
In the course of my holiday, I dipped into optional kundalini meditation classes, practiced some long-forgotten yoga moves, did a 'Martial Arts for Fun' session on the beach, and booked massages most mornings and afternoons. Hand, Foot and Oil massages, head massages, a restorative Thai massage – all were simply magical. In between I found time for a few quick dips in the ocean, some long lunches in poolside shalas, and delicious restaurant dinners watching the scenery grow in the evening rains. Three days later, I gently floated back down to earth.