Karpaha Sands
Kalkudah Bay, East Coast & Gal Oya, Sri Lanka
Reviewed by
Emma Boyle
Sri Lanka’s east coast remains blissfully untouristy, and at Kalkudah Beach, the Crusoe-lifestyle still lives on. Its 12km soft-golden-sand shoreline is fringed by coconut plantations, palmyrah trees and cashew groves, and Karpaha is the only luxury tented camp on this stretch of the bay. Blending organically into the natural surroundings, this tented resort is low-key but extremely stylish, with contemporary furnishings and open-air showers; glamping at its very best.
The 17 double and family tents sprinkle the peaceful sandy grounds while an infinity pool and the dramatic open-sided restaurant and bar sit side-by-side on the beachfront with superb ocean panoramas. Chic furnishings and décor have either been custom designed or sourced from Bali and Thailand and really stand out for their on-trend style. Art features strongly, too: in amongst the lush landscaped gardens, there’s a giant yellow gorilla sculpture, and metalwork figures lounge around, contemplating the unspoilt ocean views. The beach itself is the preserve of local fishermen, who practise the traditional craft of net casting, which is fascinating to watch. Get up for superlative sunrises, stroll along the sand, visit the Shanti spa in the garden, snooze by the pool. At night the beach and walkways are illuminated by lanterns and lights: this is the perfect place to switch off and do very little.
The 17 double and family tents sprinkle the peaceful sandy grounds while an infinity pool and the dramatic open-sided restaurant and bar sit side-by-side on the beachfront with superb ocean panoramas. Chic furnishings and décor have either been custom designed or sourced from Bali and Thailand and really stand out for their on-trend style. Art features strongly, too: in amongst the lush landscaped gardens, there’s a giant yellow gorilla sculpture, and metalwork figures lounge around, contemplating the unspoilt ocean views. The beach itself is the preserve of local fishermen, who practise the traditional craft of net casting, which is fascinating to watch. Get up for superlative sunrises, stroll along the sand, visit the Shanti spa in the garden, snooze by the pool. At night the beach and walkways are illuminated by lanterns and lights: this is the perfect place to switch off and do very little.
Highs
- A hidden paradise: the only tented camp along this near-deserted length of beach
- The tented suites are incredible – superbly styled, spacious and comfortable, with kingsize beds, double-ended bathtubs and beautiful outdoor showers – and come with your own dedicated butler
- The sea is gorgeous for swimming year round, warm and calm, especially in the dry season (Jan-Sept)
- A wonderful infinity pool and comfortable shady mattress-topped sunloungers
- Starlit evening meals: we loved the traditional curries, and super-fresh seafood; book a barbecue or a romantic dinner on the beach for sheer indulgence
Lows
- It's a long slog from Sri Lanka's main airport (Colombo, 6 hrs), but catching an internal flight to Batticaloa Airport is an option (1 hr from hotel)
- Shops and other restaurants are 4km away
- Note that the sea isn't ideal for swimming in the afternoons in Nov-Dec
Best time to go
The dry season, between January and September, is when the east coast is at its best. The weather is fine, hot and dry, and the sea is at its calmest. It can be slightly choppy October-December but is still swimmable. Watersports in Passikudah are best in the dry season, too, and some activities – such as coastal cruising and diving – only operate May-September.
Our top tips
From Passikudah you can board a luxury catamaran for 3-hour morning or afternoon cruises around the bay. There are stops for swimming, and their stylish boats are equipped with snorkelling equipment and SUPs (stand-up paddleboards). Light snacks and drinks are served, and this is a super way to get out on the water and see a little more of this barely explored coastline.