Sri Lanka’s east coast remains blissfully untouristy, and at Kalkudah Beach, the Crusoe-lifestyle still lives on. Its 12km soft-golden-sand shoreline is fringed by coconut plantations, palmyrah trees and cashew groves, and Karpaha is the only luxury tented camp on this stretch of the bay. Blending organically into the natural surroundings, this tented resort is low-key but extremely stylish, with contemporary furnishings and open-air showers; glamping at its very best.
The 17 double and family tents sprinkle the peaceful sandy grounds while an infinity pool and the dramatic open-sided restaurant and bar sit side-by-side on the beachfront with superb ocean panoramas. Chic furnishings and décor have either been custom designed or sourced from Bali and Thailand and really stand out for their on-trend style. Art features strongly, too: in amongst the lush landscaped gardens, there’s a giant yellow gorilla sculpture, and metalwork figures lounge around, contemplating the unspoilt ocean views. The beach itself is the preserve of local fishermen, who practise the traditional craft of net casting, which is fascinating to watch. Get up for superlative sunrises, stroll along the sand, visit the Shanti spa in the garden, snooze by the pool. At night the beach and walkways are illuminated by lanterns and lights: this is the perfect place to switch off and do very little.
Highs
- A hidden paradise: the only tented camp along this near-deserted length of beach
- The tented suites are incredible – superbly styled, spacious and comfortable, with kingsize beds, double-ended bathtubs and beautiful outdoor showers – and come with your own dedicated butler
- The sea is gorgeous for swimming year round, warm and calm, especially in the dry season (Jan-Sept)
- A wonderful infinity pool and comfortable shady mattress-topped sunloungers
- Starlit evening meals: we loved the traditional curries, and super-fresh seafood; book a barbecue or a romantic dinner on the beach for sheer indulgence
Lows
- It's a long slog from Sri Lanka's main airport (Colombo, 6 hrs), but catching an internal flight to Batticaloa Airport is an option (1 hr from hotel)
- Shops and other restaurants are 4km away
- Note that the sea isn't ideal for swimming in the afternoons in Nov-Dec
- Baby cots
- High chairs
- Potties
Some equipment may need to be requested in advance
The kitchen can whip up kid-friendly meals at any time of day, including western dishes (there are spring rolls, noodles and fried rice on offer too), as well as snacks and fruit ice lollies.
- Main infinity pool with shallow steps and shelf
- Toddler pool
- Library room with games, books, toys and DVDs
- Volleyball court
- Petanque
- Cinema under the stars
- Bikes to borrow
- Watersports such as kayaking, banana boating, jet skiing, snorkelling and SUP (stand-up paddleboarding) in nearby Passikudah
- Boat trips
- Pottery school
- Horse riding
- Mask painting
- Boutique Resort
- 17 tented suites
- Restaurant and bar (open daily)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Babysitting
- Creche / Kids Club
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
Rooms
The 17 suites are housed in well-designed and luxurious South African tents, each set a good distance apart from their neighbours. There are 3 versions – beachfront Palam Suites; garden-wrapped Kolaya Suites; and larger Seed Suites, which sleep up to 5 in 2 ensuite bedrooms (1 double, 1 twin + an extra bed). In a nod to the diversity within Sri Lanka, Palam means fruit in Tamil, Koyala is Sinhalese for leaf. You're introduced to your lovely butler on arrival, with whom you can communicate via your in-tent mobile phone which is pre-loaded with menus and other useful information.
Interiors are similar throughout. Timber floors, honey-coloured furnishings and kingsized beds, steamer trunks and cushions, photographs of local life and beachscapes on the cushions and walls. The open-plan bathrooms have free-standing tubs and a private walled courtyard with a waterfall shower for open-air bathing. Despite the fact you're camping, there are safes, bathrobes, bluetooth speakers, tea/coffee making facilities and minibar fridges. Tented suites are mosquito-proofed and have side panels that can be rolled up for air circulation. There are ceiling fans as well as air-conditioning units, which, given the canvas structure, worked surprisingly well.
From our Palam Suite we could lie back in bed and savour 180-degree ocean panoramas and the sunrise. However, these suites aren’t as private as the garden-based Kolaya Suites, where we stayed on our most recent visit, so it just depends which you prefer – privacy or sea views.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Bathrobes
- Bluetooth sound system
- Coffee / tea making
- Cots available
- Fan
- Hairdryer
- Minibar
- Safe box
- Toiletries
- WiFi
Eating
The open-sided first-floor restaurant makes the most of the panoramic coastal views, and its protruding balcony is a superb spot for starlit evening meals. Sourcing ingredients in this remote region of Sri Lanka is a real challenge, but the hotel manages to offer a wide-ranging menu of international cuisine; the menu was surprisingly long. Unsurprisingly, fresh fish and seafood feature highly. Expect a full range of dishes from traditional rice and curries to Thai-style salads, daily specials, classic western-style dishes including pasta and chef platters.
Breakfast is served until a very civilised 1030am, and you get a lovely fresh fruit platter, a tier of freshly-baked goodies, and again a big choice including Sri Lankan or traditional dishes such as eggs Benedict or hoppers and dosas with coconut sambal and fish, chicken or vegetarian curries, French toast or waffles, or your choice of eggs, cereals, yoghurt or plant-based patties. Try the freshly made juices or imaginative smoothies and healthy shots.
You can have snacks poolside all day, and for a really special treat, arrange a barbecue on the beach – we feasted on beautifully flamed seafood from lobster to tuna, accompanied by salad and prawn ceviche.
If you're in desperate need of a change of scene, the nearest restaurants are in Passikudah, a 30-minute drive away; this is a well-developed bay home to a number of high-end resort-style hotels.
Features include:
- Bar
- Kids' meals
- Restaurant
- Room service
Activities
- Walk – the beach stretches for miles and is mostly deserted except for fishermen who tirelessly cast their vast nets into the sea
- Relax! This coastal setting is extremely tranquil and encourages you to put your feet up, bathe in the infinity pool and the warm ocean and absorb this rare serenity
- There are body boards to borrow, as well as bikes to explore the region
- Be indulged at the twin-roomed Shanti spa, which is set in serene garden surroundings and offers a wide range of Ayurvedic and other massages (including hot stone and oil), and treatments
- For coastal cruising, boat trips, kayaking and jet skiing, make for Passikudah (30 minutes away), which is the east coast’s watersports hub
- On site there's volleyball, pétanque, and cinema under the stars (choose your movie, and recline on squashy bean bags)
- For culture, head into Batticaloa, a refreshingly sedate Tamil town ringed by lagoons that’s home to a handful of colonial sights
- Or day trip to Polonnaruwa (1.5 hours), a 12th-century World Heritage Site
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Boat trips
- Boules
- Cycling
- Jet skiing
- Kayaking
- Swimming
- Traditional cultures
- Volleyball
- Watersports
- Well being
Best Time to go
The dry season, between January and September, is when the east coast is at its best. The weather is fine, hot and dry, and the sea is at its calmest. It can be slightly choppy October-December but is still swimmable. Watersports in Passikudah are best in the dry season, too, and some activities – such as coastal cruising and diving – only operate May-September.
Our Top Tips
From Passikudah you can board a luxury catamaran for 3-hour morning or afternoon cruises around the bay. There are stops for swimming, and their stylish boats are equipped with snorkelling equipment and SUPs (stand-up paddleboards). Light snacks and drinks are served, and this is a super way to get out on the water and see a little more of this barely explored coastline.
Location
The hotel is located on Kalkudah Beach, 9km from watersports capital Passikudah, on Sri Lanka’s east coast.
By Air
Colombo Bandaranaike is the closest international airport (266km), but it's a good 6-hour drive away so an alternative is to fly with domestic airline Cinnamon Air to Batticaloa Airport, an hour’s drive from the hotel.
Getting Around:
If you don’t have your own transport, the hotel can arrange transfers from the airport, and tuk-tuks for local travel.
If you want to hire a car and driver for your whole holiday, enquire through our Tailormade Tour Operator for a customised tour of the country; they can collect you at Colombo airport when you land, drive you to the hotel, then drive you to your onward destination(s) after your stay, as well as taking you on all day trips etc.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Colombo Bandaranaike International 266.0 km CMB
- Batticaloa 30.0 km BTC
Other:
- Beach 0.1 km
- Shops 4.0 km
- Restaurant 4.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 3 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape