Kosi Forest Lodge
Maputaland, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
The Kosi Bay Nature Reserve is one of South Africa’s lesser known national parks. Yet these amazingly vast wetlands and their interconnecting lakes, form one of the country’s most beautiful and pristine eco-systems. Surrounded by low-growing forest stretching north to the Mozambique border and east to the Indian Ocean, the area is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The lodge, hidden amid sand forest at the edge of Kosi Lake, is perfectly located for exploring the wetlands and forests of the park by launch, canoe or on foot. The main building of this decked, thatched and reed-lined lodge wraps round a huge Zulu podberry tree and from here a series of sandy pathways snake through the forest to the 8 guest huts, each a good distance from the next to guarantee privacy. Beyond the huts is a small pool and a sun deck overlooking the lake; from here you can watch wallowing hippos, fish eagles diving for their catch, and amazing sunrises and sunsets.
The lodge, hidden amid sand forest at the edge of Kosi Lake, is perfectly located for exploring the wetlands and forests of the park by launch, canoe or on foot. The main building of this decked, thatched and reed-lined lodge wraps round a huge Zulu podberry tree and from here a series of sandy pathways snake through the forest to the 8 guest huts, each a good distance from the next to guarantee privacy. Beyond the huts is a small pool and a sun deck overlooking the lake; from here you can watch wallowing hippos, fish eagles diving for their catch, and amazing sunrises and sunsets.
Highs
- The lodge has been sensitively integrated with its natural environment and fully deserves its eco-lodge status
- You’re close to some of South Africa’s most beautiful beaches, which remain deserted for most of the year
- Canoeing through the narrow channels of the lake system is a uniquely peaceful wildlife experience
- The unpopulated iSimangaliso Wetland Park comprises 328,000 hectares and boasts 30,000 year old sand dunes covered in ancient forest; there are 640 species of bird, plus hippos and turtles
Lows
- There’s minimal electricity, just a generator and solar panels for items like phone chargers. But the camp looks magical at night lit by oil lamps – it adds to the whole bush experience
- The guides at Kosi are exceptionally friendly, but aren’t trained biologists. So read up on the flora and fauna of Kosi Park and the iSimangaliso Wetlands before you get there
- The lodge is a 3 hour drive from the nearest airport at Richard’s Bay, though you can also fly to Manguzi airstrip, just 9km away
- WiFi is very limited - this is not the place for those who need easy web access
Best time to go
The most exciting time of year to be here is when the leatherback and loggerhead turtles come ashore to lay their eggs from November through to March, even though it can be hot and sticky - this is the South African summer. Whale-watching is from June to September. Birdwatching along the waterways is good at any time of year.
Our top tips
Book at least 4 or 5 days here. You’ll need it to fully explore the beach and wetlands, and you’ll also be left with some time for drinking in the serenity of the lodge and its immediate surroundings.