Dazzling sunsets, warm sea swims and nesting marine turtles are a few highlights of a stay at Kumu Beach, a cool design hotel with a chilled vibe. Sitting above a golden-sand beach, Kumu’s grassy lawn is sprinkled with hammocks and teak loungers. The 10 bedrooms allow you to gaze at the ocean from the comfort of your four-poster, and the rooftops of the whitewashed buildings are primed for private starlit dining. In the garden lies a deep blue pool with a built-in seat and water jets. It's perfect for couples, though it works well for families, too.
Design is contemporary, and interiors are simplistic yet practical. Local artisans were engaged to beautify interior and exterior spaces, and your eyes are drawn to Batik-work cushions, vast globe-like garden sculptures, honey-coloured furnishings, and a brass fish suspended above the staircase. Cuisine is modern, too: Kumu is a sister hotel of Fort Bazaar and Wallawwa and shares similarly polished butler-style service; afternoon tea and social hour drinks are included in the rates too. Watersports haven Bentota is 30 minutes' drive away, as is Lunuganga, the enviable tropical garden of the late architect, Geoffrey Bawa. Galle is an hour's train ride away, a scenic coastal chug.
Highs
- A very relaxing spot, thanks to its quiet end-of-beach setting
- The smiling staff really heighten the experience – nothing is too much trouble
- We loved the inventive modern cuisine, with sharing platters and alfresco dining opportunities
- Perfect for a chilled romantic break – starlit dining, massages, four-poster beds, dreamy sunsets, direct beach access
- Wild turtles often nest on the beach
Lows
- Sea swimming is seasonal (November to April) – but the 23-metre pool compensates
- There isn’t a huge amount nearby; Bentota (30 minutes’ drive) is the closest place to shop and dine
- We found the WiFi a little patchy on our most recent visit
Best time to go
The west coast is at its best between December and April thanks to the ocean being relatively calm, and the drier weather. However, this means it gets busy, so opting to visit in the shoulder seasons of May and November is always good value. If you plan to visit in January, the hotel is within reach of Galle’s 4-day literary festival, which usually takes place during the third week of the month.
Our top tips
Time your visit to Lunuganga, Geoffrey Bawa’s spectacular inland lakeside estate, to coincide with lunch so you can tuck into a traditional rice and curry feast on the veranda of his former home. Visits to the house include a tour of the garden, and you can twin this tour with a visit to Brief, the more modest house and garden of Geoffrey’s brother, Bevis, which is located nearby.