La Ermita Suites
Central Cordoba, Malaga & Cordoba, Spain
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
Cordoba has a long, fascinating history but is best known for the period when the Three Faiths lived side by side: the city’s medieval Golden Age. La Ermita Suites, in the historic centre, just one street back from the great Mosque-Cathedral (La Mezquita), speaks of that remarkable time. It's a fusion of several buildings: one where an Islamic school once stood, another where Jewish families lived before their expulsion from Spain, and – as its grand entrance hall – the portal of the former chapel of old hermitage La Ermita de la Concepción. No surprise that this is the only hotel in the city with ‘Historical Monument’ status.
The restoration and creation of six suites was carried out over several years, with the help of historians and artists from the Prado Museum. Graceful original features were preserved whilst ensuring every suite had exterior windows, views to the old city and all creature comforts – including sitting area, kitchenette and superb bathrooms. The pebbled courtyard patio looks out towards the Mezquita itself through a splendid historic arch. Step outside to the citrus-lined Plaza de Abades, wander the old Jewish quarter and discover one of Andalucia’s most narcotic travel destinations.
The restoration and creation of six suites was carried out over several years, with the help of historians and artists from the Prado Museum. Graceful original features were preserved whilst ensuring every suite had exterior windows, views to the old city and all creature comforts – including sitting area, kitchenette and superb bathrooms. The pebbled courtyard patio looks out towards the Mezquita itself through a splendid historic arch. Step outside to the citrus-lined Plaza de Abades, wander the old Jewish quarter and discover one of Andalucia’s most narcotic travel destinations.
Highs
- Great value for being bang in the centre of the city; all Cordoba main sights and its best restaurants are close by
- Access to the historic centre, a Unesco World Heritage site, is restricted to just a few residential vehicles so the hotel is really quiet
- The owner, Javier, can arrange bespoke visits to some of the city’s most fascinating monuments, including a night time tour of the Mezquita
- Cordoba is directly linked by train to Madrid, Seville, Granada and Ronda. You could easily create a fascinating cultural tour without needing to hire a car
- Sleeping yards away from the Great Mezquita of Cordoba is a big treat
Lows
- The hotel’s reception isn’t staffed at night, but it’s easy enough to let yourself in and out
- No on-site parking but the nearest car park is just 4 minutes' walk away, and you can drive up to the door of La Ermita Suites to drop luggage
- When we visited, the dining room and breakfast set-up was not fully ready; if that's still the case, you might prefer to head out (eateries abound nearby), or make your own breakfasts using the kitchenette
Best time to go
Cordoba is just a few metres above sea level and its inland position means that summers here are very hot. Spring and autumn are the best times of year to be here: you can dine out at night, yet still feel comfortable during the middle part of the day. If you plan to come in May, book well ahead as there are three festivals in that month. The hotel is open all year.
Our top tips
Before you head for any of its historical monuments, I’d begin any visit to Cordoba with a visit to the Calahorra Tower museum. It’s on the Guadalquivir’s southern bank, just a five minute walk from the Mezquita via the Roman bridge. The museum is home to an audio-visual exhibition about art, religion, music and philosophy in Cordoba during its remarkable Golden Age, and describes how each successive Ummayad Caliph added their mark to the Great Mosque. The museum really does bring Cordoba’s medieval period to life.