Reviewed by
Claire Boobbyer
The isolated La Folie Lodge sits on Don Daeng, an island slumbering in the Mekong River, a short hop from Champasak in southern Laos. Owned by a French count, the lodge and its 26 stilted wooden bungalows plus a separate 2-bedroomed villa nestled among a lush tropical garden.
La Folie pivots around its restaurant, which is dotted with carved elephants and looks out onto the inviting royal-blue pool. Sit with a cold drink and enjoy the tranquil sunset and mesmerising skyline, particularly the natural linga-topped mountain, Linga Parvata. Beneath this auspicious spot, the pre-Angkorian Khmer kings chose to build the magnificent Wat Phou temple. This Unesco World Heritage Site of stepped ruins complete with carved asparas and shivas, sprinkled by holy water and shrouded in the falling flowers of frangipani, is a beautiful spot. And you couldn't be better placed to visit; La Folie is just a short boat and tuk-tuk ride away. After a trip to the ruins, borrow one of the hotel's bicycles and tour around the 10km-long Don Daeng, past paddies, wats and baby buffaloes.
La Folie pivots around its restaurant, which is dotted with carved elephants and looks out onto the inviting royal-blue pool. Sit with a cold drink and enjoy the tranquil sunset and mesmerising skyline, particularly the natural linga-topped mountain, Linga Parvata. Beneath this auspicious spot, the pre-Angkorian Khmer kings chose to build the magnificent Wat Phou temple. This Unesco World Heritage Site of stepped ruins complete with carved asparas and shivas, sprinkled by holy water and shrouded in the falling flowers of frangipani, is a beautiful spot. And you couldn't be better placed to visit; La Folie is just a short boat and tuk-tuk ride away. After a trip to the ruins, borrow one of the hotel's bicycles and tour around the 10km-long Don Daeng, past paddies, wats and baby buffaloes.
Highs
- The double-hull catamaran boat ride from the mainland over to the lodge; you sit on wicker chairs and hold parasols
- Lovely light rooms face the river and the quaint town of Champasak, with bright Lao textiles, blackout curtains and private balconies
- The team are friendly and extremely helpful, always willing to please in the traditional Lao fashion.
- Small island setting allows glimpses into rural Mekong life
- Egrets and swallows dancing off the surface of the sparkling pool - a rarity in Laos
- Helpful bicycle map, plus markers on the island which help guests to visit the highlights, including the ruined Tomo temple
Lows
- Due to the style of the bungalows, there is an issue with sound proofing, but we have since been assured that insulation work has slightly improved this issue
- There are currently no minibars in the rooms
- The restaurant is slightly pricey for the area, but supplies have to be shipped here and the portions are generous
- The beach at the front of the hotel is a nice spot for a stroll, but best to keep the swimming and sunbathing at the pool
Best time to go
Weatherwise the best time to go is between November and March, however during this time the river is low and a 800m sandbank forms on the main tributary of the river, so getting about by boat is trickier. In the rainy season (July-October) riverine life will be easier to see. The Wat Phou festival takes place on the full moon of the third lunar month. In high season, there is a Full moon festival every month at Wat Phou with traditional music and a candle spectacle. La Folie offers a special night boat service on this occasion.
Our top tips
- La Folie attracts an older clientele and occasional groups, but some young couples stay, too.
- Because of the effort of getting here, stay at least 2 nights
- It is disrespectful to bare too much flesh in Laos; long-sleeved shirts will also protect from sunburn