La Maison du Frene
Vence, Cote d'Azur, France
Reviewed by
Tom Bell
Matisse lived in Vence and painted it repeatedly, while Soutine drew this actual house. Fitting, then, that this utterly beguiling home is packed with original works by all the best names. Owner Thierry grew up here, moved to Paris and became hairdresser to the stars. Now he's back for the peace, and to enjoy his fabulous collection. Marvel at works by Hockney, Arman, Gilbert and George, pop-art, pastiches of Picasso and Lichtenstein, mid-century modern originals including a Charles Eames couch, and a terrific canvas above the sofa by a local Hockney-trained artist.
Beauty also filters up to the four capacious and individually presented suites: Marilyn screenprints, a black bed, gold ceramics and exquisite old oils. Mickey Mouse is gilt-framed on the vibrant red walls of the terracotta-tiled staircase, a Rennie Macintosh chair waits halfway up, and a candle chandelier hangs at the top. Colour and detail is everywhere: wallpaper, chairs, cushions, vases. The beautiful exterior is the only understated part of the house, which stands opposite the contemporary art museum and gateway to Vence's charming old town. Even breakfast cannot escape the artist’s touch – elegantly served on royal Limoges crockery and eaten under white painted beams in the impressive salon.
Beauty also filters up to the four capacious and individually presented suites: Marilyn screenprints, a black bed, gold ceramics and exquisite old oils. Mickey Mouse is gilt-framed on the vibrant red walls of the terracotta-tiled staircase, a Rennie Macintosh chair waits halfway up, and a candle chandelier hangs at the top. Colour and detail is everywhere: wallpaper, chairs, cushions, vases. The beautiful exterior is the only understated part of the house, which stands opposite the contemporary art museum and gateway to Vence's charming old town. Even breakfast cannot escape the artist’s touch – elegantly served on royal Limoges crockery and eaten under white painted beams in the impressive salon.
Highs
- The stupendous salon – a private art gallery stuffed with sculptures, paintings, busts and abstract art – is a real jaw-dropper
- The large suites are works of art in themselves; each one is unique
- Great value for money for such a very special space
- Vence is a small town, not a big village; there’s lots to see, and some night life. Many prefer Vence to busy (and more famous) St Paul de Vence down the road
- Thierry and his partner Guy are incredibly welcoming; staying here feels like you’re visiting one of your oldest and dearest friends
Lows
- No garden or pool, but there are gorgeous beaches a short drive away
- You’ll need a car to make the most of the area, but there’s no on-site car park
- Vence’s old town can get pretty busy in high season
Best time to go
The area is packed with holiday-makers in July and August so best not to come then. The hotel is open all year, and Vence would make a lovely short break in early spring or late autumn.
Our top tips
Keen to see more art? Fondation Maeght is a museum of modern art (with more than 12,000 works including ceramics, sculpture, paintings and collages) on a hill overlooking the medieval town Saint-Paul de Vence, a mecca for artists and musicians for 100 years just 5km south.