Reviewed by
Abi Dare
You’re never far from history at La Maison Pavie. It occupies a 15th-century house opposite a honey-hued basilica in central Dinan; wander inside and you’ll find ancient wattle-and-daub walls, stone hearths and delightfully wonky floors. Even the furnishings take their inspiration from the building’s past, with the travels of famed explorer Auguste Pavie (born within its walls in 1847) forming a continuous decorative thread. Oriental antiques are dotted around the 5 rooms and suites, all named after Far Eastern cities visited by Pavie, and Asian figurines preside over the dining table. But don’t be fooled into thinking a stay here means stepping back in time: this is one stylish B&B indeed, stuffed full of 21st-century comforts and contemporary classics from the likes of Philippe Starck and Paola Navone.
Dinan itself is one of Brittany’s gems, a busy market town whose half-timbered buildings, cobbled lanes and medieval ramparts look like they’ve been lifted straight from a swashbuckling Hollywood blockbuster. There’s a pretty port to potter around, fabulous restaurants and boutiques to indulge yourself in, and beautiful beaches within striking distance. At the end of the day, head back to the B&B and sink into a fireside sofa, then slip upstairs to your raftered room, where snazzy showers and heavenly beds await. We loved it, and we can’t wait to return.
Dinan itself is one of Brittany’s gems, a busy market town whose half-timbered buildings, cobbled lanes and medieval ramparts look like they’ve been lifted straight from a swashbuckling Hollywood blockbuster. There’s a pretty port to potter around, fabulous restaurants and boutiques to indulge yourself in, and beautiful beaches within striking distance. At the end of the day, head back to the B&B and sink into a fireside sofa, then slip upstairs to your raftered room, where snazzy showers and heavenly beds await. We loved it, and we can’t wait to return.
Highs
- An imaginative fusion of old and new: perspex ‘Ghost’ chairs sit by carved tables, sleek shower heads hang from gnarled beams, and the lounge’s 18th-century panelling is painted a striking petrol-blue
- Tasty breakfast goodies include just-baked bread, sweet brioches and excellent coffee, and you can pre-book 4-course feasts for dinner
- Fantastic hosts, who know when to chat and when to be discreet
- Great-value rates that include plenty of little extras - free tea and coffee, bottled water and delicious Breton biscuits, even a pre-paid pass for a secure car park nearby
- There’s a lovely little garden for summer drinks (bring your own wine and they’ll chill it for you)
Lows
- You’ll need to negotiate a steep, narrow staircase to reach rooms on the upper floors, though manager Ghislain will help with luggage
- Best suited to couples - there are no twin beds, and the open-plan bathrooms mean you’ll need to be on very good terms with your travelling companion
- The house's period charm makes for a few creaks and groans - plus occasional bumped heads
- You can hear the church bells, but they only toll from 8am to 7pm
- Central Dinan is tricky to negotiate by car, with tight streets and a complicated one-way system that bamboozled our sat-nav
Best time to go
Dinan is wonderful at any time of year. Choose spring or summer for lazy days on the river (though be prepared for crowds during school holidays), or autumn and winter for crisp walks and cosy evenings by the fire. In July the Fête des Remparts sees medieval-style banquets and jousting along the town's streets, and come December the multitude of boutiques and delis make Christmas shopping a treat.
Our top tips
From May to October, you can hop on a ferry for a scenic 3-hour float along the river between Dinan and Saint-Malo. Both towns are best seen from the water, and you’ll pass through pretty villages, flower-filled meadows and locks along the way. Timings vary according to the tide and it’s often not possible to sail to Saint-Malo and back again in a day, so take the bus there, enjoy a long lunch, and catch the late-afternoon boat back.