La Tangerina
Tangier & the North, Morocco
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
La Tangerina grabs an unforgettable location at the highest point of Tangier’s hilltop kasbah, at the edge of the cliff which was its defensive raison d’être. From its airy roof terrace you look out across its old town and harbour to the Atlantic and the southern Spanish coast. Farida and her husband Jürgen couldn’t have found a better spot on which to create the small guesthouse of their dreams after returning to the town of her birth.
Jürgen oversaw restoration with a craftsman’s eye for detail and a brief of "top spec everything". They then trawled the antique shops of the town for memorabilia from the town’s Belle Epoque, a time when the international glitterati made Tangier their own, searching out old suitcases and trunks, mirrors and dressers, lamps and radios. The 10 rooms now evoke the times of Bowles and Waugh, and the house remains true to the spirit of that cosmopolitan past: you eat at one table with your hosts and other guests. A wonderfully characterful hideaway in a characteristically wonderful Moroccan city.
Jürgen oversaw restoration with a craftsman’s eye for detail and a brief of "top spec everything". They then trawled the antique shops of the town for memorabilia from the town’s Belle Epoque, a time when the international glitterati made Tangier their own, searching out old suitcases and trunks, mirrors and dressers, lamps and radios. The 10 rooms now evoke the times of Bowles and Waugh, and the house remains true to the spirit of that cosmopolitan past: you eat at one table with your hosts and other guests. A wonderfully characterful hideaway in a characteristically wonderful Moroccan city.
Highs
- Bedrooms get the mix just right between solid comfort and local flavour, with a predominance of tangerine in colour schemes
- Jürgen and Farida greet guests in an unaffected, easy manner. They really make you feel chez toi
- La Tangerina’s position couldn’t be better: heart-stopping views, no passing traffic, and you’re at the heart of the kasbah
- The communal spaces - sitting room, dining room, basement hammam - all share the same intimate, cared-for vibe
Lows
- You can't park right outside the house, but you can drive there and drop off your suitcases, then park 75m away
- Expect some hassle in the Tangier souks; but armed with patience, humour and a few euros, you can grab some great ethno-bargains
- The hotel is the sort of place where you are obliged to be sociable
- Some rooms are a little spartan, but the pretty details won us over
Best time to go
Being in a city you are less dependant on what the weather is doing so any time of year is a good time to visit Tangier. Just avoid August when thousands of Moroccans living in France return for the vacances nationales and the ferries struggle to cope with the sudden influx of vehicles.
Our top tips
The roof terrace is an inspirational place to be at any time of day. Be sure to put time aside for a sundowner and, if you rise early, to watch the sun coming up over Spain.